In this tutorial, we're going to learn to make these cabled booties.
They're called Hygge Feet.
And they are quick knit in bulky yarn and sized for men and women.
If you'd like to get your copy of the pattern to follow along, just click the little I in
the upper right-hand corner.
That will take you to my website where I have listed out all the materials and everything
you need.
I will also have a link to the description of the word Hygge, which is a Danish word.
If you haven't heard of it, it doesn't translate exactly in English.
But the closest thing is coziness.
And it's a word that I have actively taken on in my life to bring more coziness into
my life.
And I had that in mind when I designed these cabled booties.
These actually don't look like much off your feet.
So let's go ahead and cut away to a photo of my very hygge living room and the fire.
They'll give you a better look.
The reason they don't look that great off your feet is because the cable and the purl
in-between kind of makes a ribbing.
So they just kind of scrunch up and don't look like a lot.
Again, these are knit with bulky yarn and they're knit toe-up using German Short Rows.
And I've put this pattern at intermediate.
I kind of went back and forth about where to put this.
I put it intermediate because there are a few different things going on.
But if you are comfortable with all the basics, you know, knitting and purling, and you've
used double pointed needles before, this shouldn't be that hard.
If you haven't worked cables before, I'm actually gonna show you how to do that.
So that's not a problem.
Again, more information if you click little I in the upper right-hand corner, including
a great web article about hygge.
And next step will start with the cast on.
We are ready to get started on these booties.
And like I said, they're pretty quick to work up because they are knit in bulky yarn.
And it also makes the cabling pretty easy because we're not dealing with tiny little
stitches and a tiny little cable needle.
These start the way all of my toe-up German Short Row patterns start.
So this won't be anything new to you if you've done those before.
But it does get a little bit different because we start incorporating the ribbing of the
cable on the second half of the toe.
But don't worry.
We're gonna go through all of that.
Let's get started on the provisional cast on.
Well, let's get a close-up of these first.
You see the cable and the ribbing between, the bottom of the sole is straight stockinette.
And the cables run all the way around the outside of the cuff.
And I realize this is gray on gray.
Well, let me see, I have this one almost finished.
Is that one easier?
That one is impossible to see.
Let's just get started with the cast on.
We are going to use some scrap yarn and a crochet hook to get going.
And the first thing you wanna do is tie a knot in the yarn.
Don't worry, I'm gonna switch to a different color here in a minute.
That is so we can distinguish the slip knot end from the non-slip knot end.
Do a slip knot and crochet chain a few stitches.
You don't really have to know how to crochet.
This is about the extent of the crochet you have to know how to do.
Take one of your DPNs.
I should also mention if you're more comfortable using magic loop, you can also use magic loop
instead of double pointed needles.
So, put your needle on the yarn like this, reach the crochet hook over, grab the yarn,
and pull it through.
We've just done one.
Pull the yarn back behind the needle.
Reach the crochet hook over, grab it, pull it through.
You see the rhythm here.
I'm just going to work a little sample.
Make a tiny little toe.
Woops, I'm casting on differently.
I started slipping into long tail cast on.
And after you get the number necessary for the size you're knitting, then just chain
a few more stitches and cut the yarn and pull the last loop through.
Okay.
Now we're going to start with our actual sock yarn.
And you want to start...let me get this right.
Let me look at my paper here.
Start at the slip knot end of the crochet chain.
Okay.
So we tie this little knot so we can feel which side is a slip knot.
We wanna start in the slip knot end of the crochet chain.
And knit across these stitches.
I'm just going to start using the other yarn.
And then, I'm going to turn the work and purl across the stitches.
And this is all just a setup for getting going with the German Short Rows.
Okay.
So here is the first row of the German Short Rows.
And again, I'm doing a tiny sample here.
This is all written out row by row in the pattern.
I just wanna demonstrate the techniques for you here.
I'm going to knit up to the last stitch.
I'm actually going to knit the last stitch and turn the work.
And this is where the German Short Row comes in.
I'm going to slip that first stitch.
And you see I'm slipping it as if to purl.
My working yarn is coming from the front.
I'm going to pull it over the needle and back around again between the needles.
Let me show you that again.
This is how you're going to do a German Shot Row on the purl side.
Slip that stitch, pull the yarn over the needle.
And back around between the needles so that we can purl across because you want your working
yarn in front to purl.
And I'm going to purl up to the last stitch.
I'm going to actually purl the last stitch.
I don't know why I keep saying that wrong.
Okay.
So I turned the work.
And this is how I'm going to work a German Short Row on the knit side.
I'm going to slip that stitch as if to purl.
They're always slipped as if to purl.
And then pull my yarn forward.
And then, up on it to create that funny double stitch.
And then, knit across.
The funny double stitch, they look a little bit different on the knit side and the purl
side.
But they work just the same.
So I'm gonna knit the second to last stitch on this row.
Turn the work.
And when you're on the purl side, your working yarn on is already in front.
So I'll slip that stitch, pull up on it to create the funny double stitch, yarn forward
between the needles, and purl across.
Okay.
I purl the second to last stitch and leaving that funny double stitch there on the needle,
turn the work.
And here's how I do it on the knit side.
And see, the first one was kind of different because I didn't have to yarn forward because
it was the end stitch.
So I'm going to yarn forward.
Slip that stitch from left needle to right.
Pull up on it.
And then knit across.
We will do this one more time.
Okay.
Slip, pull up, yarn forward, and purl.
Believe me, you get into quite a rhythm with this.
Turn the work, yarn forward, slip, pull up, and knit across.
Okay, that's the first half of the tow or a tiny little demonstration of the first half
of the toe.
And now to finish off the German Short Rows, we're going to knit back across and work those
double stitches back into the work.
Now, something I want to show you, strangely enough when you're working on toe-up socks
like this, we start here and work our way down.
And then, work our way back up.
You see what I'm saying?
Other cast-ons will have you start at the tip of the toe.
This goes down, around, and back up.
And so, on the second half of the toe, you're gonna start working in purl stitches to get
the ribbing going that will later work itself into the cables.
But right now, we're just focused on the German Short Rows.
And again, this is spelled out stitch by stitch in the pattern.
I'm going to knit up to my first double stitch.
Knit those two halves together.
Knit the second double stitch together.
And turn the work.
Now I'm going to do the exact same German Short Row technique I did before and purl
to the first double stitch on this side.
Purl the double stitches together and the next ones.
Turn the work and work German Short Row again.
The German Short Row... sometimes I get this question and I don't think I explain it often
enough.
German Short Rows as a substitute...or German Short Rows or traditional wrap and turns,
they let us turn the work without working all the way across the row, without leaving
a hole.
If we just turn the work and didn't do a technique like this, it will leave a big hole in the
work.
So I'm knitting those two together and the next two.
Slip that stitch.
Pull up and purl.
We're almost done with this little sample here.
When you're actually working the second half of the toe on yours, you're going to incorporate
some purl stitches.
Okay, one more time here.
Okay, I'm down to the last double stitch, so I'm just gonna knit those together and
turn the work.
And now, instead of working a German Short Row, I'm just gonna slip that stitch and purl
across.
And I come to the last double stitch and I'm just gonna purl those together.
Tada, tiny little sock toe.
Looks like I split a stitch there.
You know what?
This is how we're gonna deal with that.
This is a wool yarn.
It's all going to eventually felt together.
Yep, that worked.
Now we're going to unzip.
I don't recommend that for everything.
But if that ended up being a disaster on a sock toe, I would just redo it.
I would just start from the beginning again.
Okay.
Now we're going to undo the provisional cast on.
And remember how we cut the yarn and pulled it through the last loop?
We're starting here at the non-slip knot end.
And I'm gonna pull that last loop back out, that end back out.
We want to retrieve these stitches and get them live back on the needle.
So unzip that a bit.
And the first stitch is wonky.
The yarn actually runs through the first stitch.
So get your needle in there.
And then, pull the yarn out of that stitch.
Okay, from here it's easier.
We're going to be looking at just the pink yarn and we're looking at the Vs that make
the knit stitch.
And we're going to put our needle under the right leg of each stitch going across.
So there's my first one.
I mean, that's two.
I like to do a few all at once.
And then unzip.
I'm putting half the stitches on one needle.
And I'm going to grab the other half.
I mean, I'm going to grab another needle to retrieve the other half.
Okay.
We're done with that scrap yarn and we have three needles going.
We're ready to knit in the round.
And usually, at this point...I mean, always at this point, not usually, I will tie the
working yarn to the tail end which helps tighten everything up.
Makes everything look better.
And if you want to use magic loop but you're using double pointed needles up until this
point, this is a good point to start working magic loop, if that's what you choose.
And from here on out, you're just going to knit across following the pattern, of course,
because we have purl stitches on the instep.
You're just going to knit around and around on your double pointed needles to knit the
foot of the booty.
Okay.
So that is the toe and probably the most complicated part of the whole thing.
Now, I want to show you how to work the cable stitches.
Because I don't have you actually working any cable twists while you're working the
toe, but you start right in with cable twists after that.
And here is a sample showing the different cable twists.
And you'll see that I have two right leaning and two left leaning cables.
This is how I've written the pattern.
You can choose to do this or not.
The way I've written the pattern is one foot...let's just say the right foot is all right leaning
twists and the left foot is all left leaning twists.
So just kind of makes them look nice and symmetrical but it also adds a little variety for the
knitter.
And this is my cable needle.
Cable needles come in a billion different shapes and sizes.
I like these little wood needles that are slightly thinner in the center.
And I have this flat piece.
I just want to show you how to work the cables if you haven't done that before because they
look like this really hard, scary thing and they're not.
They are something I would call big bang for the buck.
They look really impressive, and they're not that hard to work.
Okay.
So I'm up to the cable.
And different cables are worked differently.
This is how they're worked in this pattern.
I'm going to take my cable needle and slip two stitches onto the cable needle.
And push them into the back of the work.
Okay.
And then I ignore them.
I knit two stitches.
And then, knit two stitches from the cable needle.
Okay.
You see that made a twist.
Cables look like they're twisted.
They actually really are.
So I'm gonna purl a couple of stitches.
And you notice when I...after I work a purl stitch from switching from knit to purl...I've
shown this in a lot of my videos, I yarn back and tug.
It makes the tension between the knits and the purls, especially when you have a cable
going, it makes it look better.
So I slide two stitches to the cable needle, hold that in the back of the work, knit two,
and then knit two from the cable needle.
If you haven't worked cables before, when you first do them, you'll wish that you had
an extra pair of hands.
But you get used to it.
All right.
Now I'm gonna show you how to work the left-leaning cable.
I was trying to get a fuzz off and I think I just made it look complicated.
It was a purple fuzz.
Okay.
The left-leaning cable, the only difference is we slide the stitches to the cable needle
and hold them in the front of the work instead of the back.
Knit two and then knit two from the cable needle.
I'm gonna purl a stitch and tug.
Purl a stitch and tug.
So that's how it looks.
Like I said, it's not that hard.
It's a lot of bang for your buck.
Those are all the techniques used.
And of course, you'll just follow the pattern row by row for the size that you're knitting.
The heel is worked exactly like the toe, no difference.
And then, you'll start working the cable stitches all the way in the round when you're working
the cuff.
And next up, I want to show you the bind off.
I kind of had kind of a unique thing going on with the bind off here and just tidy finishing
work and that's coming up next.
I know I put this pattern at intermediate and so it seems like I'm overdoing it by demonstrating
the bind off.
But I had to work through a few different bind offs on this until I got exactly what
I wanted.
I found that a regular bind off was too stiff, didn't stretch enough.
And then a regular stretchy bind off was too loose and kind of flared.
And so, I did a combination...
It worked for me.
I think this is a good choice but if you're knitting these for someone who maybe has thicker
ankles, you might just wanna go with a straight stretchy bind off.
You can see how it looks when I'm done here.
Let's go and take a look.
I know you know how to bind off already, but we'll cover this just in case.
Here is a little sample of the cuff.
And my first stitch here is a purl.
And then it goes into the knit stitches of the cable.
What I'm going to do is a regular bind off, a regular stiff sturdy bind off on the purl
stitches, and then a stretchy bind off on the knit stitches.
And I'm going to bind them all off knit wise, all the way around.
Believe me, I tried all kinds of different things.
This is what works.
So I'm going to purl the first stitch and then knit the next stitch and pull that over.
And then, knit the next stitch.
And here, I'm switching into a stretchy bind off.
So I take the tip of my left needle, put it into the front of those stitches, and knit
them together through the back loop.
I have another knit stitch coming up.
So I do the same thing with that.
Another knit stitch, and do the same thing with that.
And a purl stitch.
And this time, I'm going to do a normal bind off.
And a purl stitch.
And this time, I do a normal bind off.
And now, I run back into the knit stitches.
So I do a stretchy bind off.
Actually, I'll give you a link to my stretchy bind off video because I demonstrate both
knits and purl in there.
If this is a new bind off for you, it is awesome.
I'm using it on, gosh, almost every pair of toe up socks now.
Really, every pair except for these.
So now I'm on the last two purl stitches.
So I'm going to purl and normal bind off, and purl and normal bind off.
And of course, you'll work that...let me just get that stitch up there out of the way.
You'll work that all the way around and you end up with something that has a ridge to
it.
I mean, it has an obvious line to it because it's not in pattern.
But I think it looks good, and it has stretch to it.
It definitely has give to it but not so much that it flares...well, it kind of flares when
they're off your feet, but it fits nicely when they're actually around your ankle.
Okay.
The last thing I wanna demonstrate is something that is really important when you're working
with such a bulky yarn, is the very last bind off stitch.
Because knitting in the round is essentially knitting in a spiral, the very last bind off
stitch ends up looking pretty clunky.
You see that big stair steppy there?
I know this is pretty dark on camera.
You don't have to see the whole sock, just this little bit that I'm showing here, the
stair steppy one.
So I'm going to take my tapestry needle because I have to weave in this and anyway.
And really what I'm gonna do is just connect this end of the spiral to this end the spiral
by going under a V over here and pulling.
And then, going back down into the slipknot or the end knot side.
And, tada, it ends up looking so much better.
The reason I wanna demonstrate this, especially in these socks, is because the bulky yarn
does make it so much clunkier and it's really easy to fix in bulky yarn.
Anyway, that is it.
You'll make one of these.
And then, of course, I'm gonna make another one.
And the only difference between left and right is that one cable twist goes one way and the
other cable twist goes the other way.
Again, click the little I in the upper right-hand corner for more information on hygge and information
about everything you see in this video.
Good luck.
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