Welcome to the 42nd episode of my knife making channel.
In the last episodes, you've seen how I made some blanks according to my new design
from episode 36.
In this episode I practice the polish freehand, i.e. without grinding device.
First, I scribe the lines on the blade that you need for the grinding.
Here are some useful tools, with that the scribing works best with.
Let's start with the marking on the side surfaces.
I made a stencil out of G10.
Then I only need to transfer the plunge line with a marking pin, symmetrically on both sides.
Now I'm going to take an old caliper around to extend this line along its entire length.
This line runs exactly parallel to the later cutting bevel.
Here I usually scratch the marking color on the back of the blade
and cut it off unintentionally so that I must renew it.
I've made a tool that is right in the middle of my line.
My steel is 4.2 mm thick.
The tip lies exactly on 2.1 mm and is glued with epoxy resin on a thin aluminium sheet.
I put the blade on a polished granite plate and I'm scoring the midline.
So that the line really represents the middle, I turn the blade to the other side
and repeat the whole thing.
Before I start with the grinding, I'll give you one more trick on how to use your abrasive belts
so that they can be used long lasting.
With my microscope I enlarged a zircon corundum band with grain 40 on the left.
You see a lot of little grinding particles in various directions.
In the middle is a ceramic ribbon with grain 80.
The grinding particles are not so easy to see, but even here, there are rugged uprisings,
which cut into the steel during grinding and wear it down.
On the far right, you can see a tape that's already well worn.
There are hardly any pointed grinding particles sticking out.
The surface looks like levelled.
When grinding, the belt runs from top to bottom.
Here I have shown schematically how the steel is brought to the grinding belt.
If you put it on the abrasive belt at right angles then the grinding particles are hit
with full force on a sharp edge and are shaved off.
That's not how you should do it when the abrasive belt is supposed to last a long time.
The grinding particles hit an angled edge,
they cut into the material and do not break off.
Try it on a rough tape, there looks the difference most clearly.
If you place the workpiece at a right angle,
the grinding particles even fly noticeably into your face.
That is why my first step is breaking the edges.
I always use an old grinding belt for this,
because not much material has to be removed.
The workpiece hits at a harmless angle of 45 degrees on the abrasive belt.
This way, I'll break the hard edge of the blade.
I've shown this schematically here.
On the left the sanding belt, which runs from top to bottom.
From the right the blade comes closer.
The edge is removed up to the centre line.
After that I do the same for the other side,
by turning the blade 180 degrees.
Now comes the grinding.
Now the abrasive belt does not meet any hard edge,
but always on a broken edge.
The grinding particles cut into the steel without being torn down.
When the first side of the bevel is finished I turn the blade 180 degrees again
and make the cut on the other side.
Then the grinding is finished.
The abrasive belt is worn out but not so strong,
like I havn't broken the edges before.
So here's the first step again, the breaking of the edge on the left side of the blade.
I'm trying to get as close as I can to the center line, but to maintain a steady
but a tiny distance from it, 0.25 mm are optimal.
Now it's the right side.
Also here I only break the edge for now at an angle of 45 degrees.
Slowly I work my way up to the center line.
What you don't see here is that I immerse the blade in water to cool it every time.
That should do it so far.
The angle does not have to be the same on both sides
because it will have finally disappeared after the following grinding.
First, I make a hit on the blade.
This tool is not necessary, but it helps me, so that I am
safe from accidentally removing much of the blade mirror.
Two parallel strips of hardened steel are pushed over the blade and is positioned,
that the blade mirror is obscured.
Now I change the old abrasive belt through a new one.
I'll take a zircon corundum with grain 80, because this one's better bent.
The ceramic tape is not flexible enough for this, that I can do a rounded ricasso with it.
But unfortunately the blue belt doesn't last that long like a ceramic belt.
Here we go with the grinding.
Since I'm not so skilled at it yet, I do it at a slow belt speed.
It took me almost an hour.
Here again the schematic drawing, the the grinding from the side.
At the top I have to work my way up to the center line
and at the bottom to the line torn on the side.
The approach to these lines I steer just by holding the blade against the tape
and press either further up or further down against the blade with my thumb.
After each process I check the result,
to change the angle a little bit during the next operation.
But first and foremost, it's a matter of removal of material, on a large scale.
In the future, I'll be raising the belt speed at this point.
But so far, I've had enough of the pace.
Like I said, it takes a long time.
Maybe grain 80 is too fine and I think, that grain 40 could be better in future
or grain 60 for grinding once I'm sure enough.
The bevel is for the left side still not ready.
Nevertheless, I'm going to start with the right side,
because the camera's restricting my view too much.
I have to reposition it somehow, when I get closer to my goal.
So now it's the other side's turn, here schematic for the time being.
Like I said, you don't need the hit that I mounted on the blade.
The grinding notch actually shows me clearly where I have to start grinding.
But the hit is helping me to find the right angle to be maintained.
All I have to do is align it parallel to the belt.
To create a beautiful round plunge line, I always start the process there
with slight pressure and then move the blade always at the same angle across the belt.
After I put the camera aside
I can see better where I'm grinding.
Now I'm going back to the left side where I dropped out earlier.
D2 steel is not so easy to grind like O2.
I might have preferred to have a new belt.
Instead, I try to remove the material with more pressure.
That's not optimal.
First you have to cool more.
And then you can't really hold the blade and keep it stable and steady.
You can really see the evaporating water here.
But in time lapse you can see the progress pretty good.
The grinding is approaching more and more to the scribe line.
And that's nice and parallel, too. I had not expected this.
The bevel is now almost at the torn center line arrived.
So far I am very satisfied with the progress.
I did it.
Finally the finish comes later,
where some more material has to be taken away.
Now it's the other side again, which hopefully will be symmetrical
to the already finished left side.
I now submit the blade regularly to the camera.
You can see how I pull up the edge.
And I am equally approaching the centerline of the cutting edge.
Between each of these settings lie several minutes,
where I drag and cool in water.
I like the fact that the plunge line is almost the way I had scribed it.
And that's when the polish is finally done.
In the middle I leave about 0.4 mm.
One should not grind too thinly, because it happens during quenching,
that waves form in the cutting edge or that the blade even tears.
The hit can go down again.
With the grinder, it would be gone faster, but my goal is,
to practice how to grind freehand.
If you don't want to miss the new episodes, please subscribe to my channel.
I'd be very happy if you'd give me a little thumbs up
or if you write something in the comments.
Thanks for watching, take care and see you next time!
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