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BMR's Tubular K-Member in hammer-tone fits all '05 through 2014 Mustangs with standard
motor mounts.
And it's a great way for any Mustang owner to tighten up and shed some weight off their
front end, while also making it easier to work on your car, install a set of long tube
headers, or even go forced induction down the road.
Now, in terms of the installation, guys, this is something that's going to warrant an easy,
but an involved one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter here, about a four-hour
job, and I'll have more for you coming up on that later.
So if you've been around or under your car a few times, you know your car has a K-member,
and let's call it what it is - that K-member can be a pain in the ass to work around.
Now, if you haven't dived under your Mustang yet, you might not be too sure as to what
the real-world benefits are of getting into a tubular setup like we have here today is.
And I'm here to make this really simple with three words - weight, strength, access.
Now, while it's a little bit more involved than that, but this sucker was designed for
street drag and handling applications.
And first up, it is gonna shed some weight off your front end by a bit.
Your factory K-member comes in at around 46 pounds, whereas this weighs 26 pounds.
While 20 pounds sounds like a small number, every little bit counts in the real world.
Now, by reducing that weight on your front end, you're essentially creating better weight
distribution on your car, and this is going to help you get off the line that much better,
take corners harder.
I will mention it now and again a little bit later that if you were to pair this with BMR's
lower A-arms or other front-end components, a 75-pound weight reduction is easily achievable,
and that's a huge weight savings even in the track world.
Now, not only is this lightweight, but it's strong, and that's something you'll want to
see with any suspension component, especially a K-member.
Now, this is designed and made right here in the U.S., and it's manufactured from 1,
1.25, and 1.5-inch DOM tubing.
And it's 100% bolted, meaning that you're not doing any cutting or welding in the slightest,
like a lot of other undercarriage attachments require.
Now, last but not least, this is finished off in BMR's black hammer-tone finish, which
is gonna hold up for years and it's not gonna rust or corrode.
Now, aside from all those reasons, if you're doing a set of long tubes on your S197 or
you've helped a buddy out with installing them, you know that they're knuckle-buster
jobs.
There's really not much room at all to work around down there.
So BMR's Tubular K-Member was designed to provide more clearance for both aftermarket
headers and turbo systems, which is gonna allow for a much easier installation, as well
as upkeep and maintenance.
So a couple optional upgrades that BMR recommends are gonna be their A-arm support brace and
their billet aluminum motor mounts.
But bushings are something that I want to point out here too.
This is gonna come with a set of soft polyurethane bushings, and there's definitely nothing wrong
with that.
But if you're looking for more performance, BMR's solid aluminum bushings are definitely
gonna be where it's at.
Now, the only downside here when they're paired with a K-member is you are gonna be feeling
a little bit more noise vibration and harshness.
But with that said, we are just talking about bushings here, and I think the performance
benefits outweighs the occasional bump and hum.
Now, either way though, guys, expect to be spending just about $500 bucks to get this
onto your car, and that's typically where these are gonna fall into line.
Now, for the money here, you're not only gonna be lightening your front end and making it
considerably easier to work on your car, but you're gonna be creating that much more of
an even weight distribution, which is gonna help you get off the line better.
Now, taking it a step further, this sets you up to install upgraded A-arms as well.
And with those, you would be shaving even more weight off the already heavy front end
of your car.
But switching gears to the installation portion, guys, you are gonna be looking at an easy,
but an involved one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter here and about a four-hour
job.
Now, you're gonna want to start by getting your car off the ground on a set of stands,
pulling your wheels and tires, and then you're gonna want to start loosening the outer tie
rod and nuts.
And you're gonna want to knock them loose from the spindle with a hammer.
And once you're done there, loosen and remove the A-arm ball joint cross bolts and knock
or pry the ball joints loose from the spindle.
You're then gonna move on to removing the front steering shaft bolt.
Then, you're gonna want to unplug the wires from the front of the rack and pinion, then
move on to removing the motor mount nuts from the top.
So once you're done there, you'll need to support the motor and trans in preparation
for removal of the K-member and A-arms, and you want to have it placed directly underneath
your bell housing.
So once that's supported, guys, you're gonna want to remove all eight of the K-member bolts,
and then lower that K-member and A-arm and rack assembly.
Now, you'll then remove the three bolts that connect the rack and pinion to the factory
K-member, or the two bolts if you have an '05 through 2010.
Using the provided hardware, bolt direct to the K-member.
Then, insert the additional provided bolts, nuts, and washers into the rear of the mount
rack, and then tighten those down.
So if you're gonna be using the OE A-arms, remove all four rear A-arm bolts from the
factory K-member.
And then you'll remove both front A-arm bolts, and then remove the A-arms.
Now, at that point, you can then install the BMR K-Member onto the car using the factory
mounting hardware.
And then you're gonna want to tighten everything down to 85 foot-pounds, lower the jack, and
then remove it.
So at this point, guys, you're almost done.
But you'll need to get all of BMR's mounting hardware into place, followed by reattaching
the tie rod ends to the spindle, getting the electrical connectors back into the rack and
pinion, then reinstall the steering shaft.
And after that, it's on to the factory or BMR A-arms, followed by getting the ball joint
back into the spindle, throw your wheels and tires back on, and then you're ready to rock.
So that'll wrap up my quick review and breakdown of BMR's Tubular K-Member in the hammer-tone
finish, fitting all 2005 through 2014 Mustangs with standard motor mounts that's available
right here at americanmuscle.com.
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