Hello! In this video tutorial we are going to to make these openwork earrings.
As you can see, these are two perforated layers who are following a concentric pattern.
The layers are assembled leaving a space between them that is going to give
lightweight and easy to assemble the pieces.
They're assembled like earrings, but if what we want is a
pendant or a necklace of several beads
we will be able to do it easily. In the example I am going to show you, I have chosen
a very light color palette, in tone rosewood and bronze. But as you see in the
other models that I show you, we can make color combinations
that we like best.
In all of them I have chosen fall tones.
We're going to do the whole
project with the new "Metallic" from Cernit. I hope you enjoy it as much
as I do. Let's begin!
As I told you before, I have opted for a autumn colour palette. The tone "gold
pink" and "antique bronze". In other words, a neutral tone together with a warm tone.
To choose the right tones for your project we used the color chart that I made in my
previous video.
Condition the clay and make two sheets in the thickness setting of the
pasta machine. Cut two rectangles of the the same size and divide them by the
diagonals leaving a small separation from the vertices.
This small space will make the gradation will not lose the
original colours
Assemble the triangular shapes one on top of others according to their color for
recompose the rectangle.
With the index fingers press softly the line of union so that the
the two colors stick together
Begin by placing the rectangle by the thickest setting of the pasta machine
but before pass it, fix the clay with the help of the fingers.
Then go through number 2 and number 3. Fold the plate making sure that in
the edges match the pink color with pink and bronze with bronze.
Notice that the clay sheet is lengthens more on one side than the other.
This is because the rollers of my pasta machine are not perfectly
parallel to each other. In the area where the the clay lengthens the rollers are
closer together than in other areas, that's why I'm going to turn the sheet upside down
every time I passed it through the pasta machine
Continue folding the sheet and by passing it through the pasta machine, always in
position number 3 and considering that every time we take out the
sheet from the pasta machine we will look at it on both sides and we'll fold it leaving
to the inside the part that seems to us uglier, i.e. the one that is less gradated.
When we're going to pass the sheet through the pasta machine, first
place it and then run a finger through the part closer to the roller, so this
the sheet adheres a little and does not moves with movement.
Besides, while we're passing it, we'll be holding the clay sheet for the upper part
by pulling slightly toward the top up so that it doesn't get bigger and bigger
in horizontal way as it passes through the pasta machine
As you can see we have three clearly defined zones: one rose, one colored
bronze and a mixture of the two
Since I don't like so much the gradation, since I think it's very dark.
and with too much bronze presence I go to add a pink triangle to modify it.
As we can see, we've changed the gradation. We still have three zones
but now the presence of rose is greater than in the previous gradient.
The whole set is lighter
To cut the pieces, you can use the templates of shapes that are
available, for free download, in my web page. The address is anabelchi.com
We place the templates on the sheet and with the help of a flexibe
blade we cut as if it were a guillotine. I mean, downwards.
This is going to make the cut cleaner and especially that we don't have any kind of burr.
Put the pieces on a glass and place another one on top of it to prevent it from being
deformed or curved.
These are the baked pieces. What we're going to do now, is to use a
template to be able to make the holes in a precise way. Below, in the description
box, you have the address from which you can
download this template. What we will do is to print it on an adhesive paper, which
is going to allow us to fix it to the piece and drill without moving anything at all.
Before we cut anything, what we'll have
is make sure we're going to place the templates in the correct
direction. Because what we have in front of us are asymmetrical parts, i.e. neither
the holes nor the gradation are symmetrical. Therefore to avoid
wrong, I like to draw something that may look like an earring hook
but above all it allows me visualize how the pieces will be placed.
And now that we're clear on how the templates go, we can cut them out
using a pair of scissors, and we'll glue them on the pieces.
We have to make sure that they are very well adhered.
We're gonna use a set of drills that goes from 0.8 to 2 millimetres of
diameter and let's make the holes using a hand drill.
It is true that a multitool is much more fast, but unless you have a lot of
practice in making holes with a electric drill I recommend you
to do it by hand. Because the speed of the the tool is going to make you
lose precision when you make the holes.
Underneath the piece we're going to put a little wooden board that's going
to serve as a martyr for not to spoil the table, but above all to avoid that the
the drill break the other side of the piece and ruin our hole.
So important is the front part like the back when
we work, even if we don't see it. We adjust the drill bit to the template hole and
drill as perpendicularly as possible.
Now that we've done
all the holes in the frontpart we're going to flip it over and starting to
drill from the backside of the piece. In this case it is no longer necessary to
work on a piece of wood.
Change the drill bit and work in the same way
Although I like to drill from top to bottom. and it's true that all the holes are
made in this way, I show you this so that you see well how it is the
drilling process
Now that we have our piece drilled, we remove the template.
As you can see, it comes out perfectly but sometimes there are leftovers
In this case I recommend you to put the piece in a bowl with a
little bit of isopropyl alcohol.
We're going to refine the inside of the drilled holes as the drill bits
tend to leave a not pretty good finish We are going to do it with diamond
drills that we will be dipping in water for not to spoil them.
I have opted for the color "Hematite" for two reasons: the first is because it provides
contrast to the piece and the second is because it makes the earrings
become reversible.
We have the cylinder baked and cut 8 pieces about 3 millimeters long.
Even if the clay is cooked, making the cuts is very easy, I use a
flexible blade that I have cut in half.
As the pieces are very small is going to be much easier to glue them if
we use a pair of tweezers to hold each piece.
As we are gluing each piece, we'll wipe off the excess glue with
a baby wipe. We are going to hold them with the tweezers to make easier.
As precise as we may have been to the time to cut the pieces, it's almost
inevitable that each of the pieces have different size, so let's sand
a little using a soft grit sandpaper.
Now we're going to use two pieces of the cylinders
to adjust the place where we have to put the top layer on. Doing so
make sure that the holes fit perfectly.
We put glue on each one of the pieces and we're gonna help each other out with a toothpick.
not to put too much
We sand the edges well. In this case, a foam used in nailart
will help a lot. Place the sandpaper on top of it and sand with
all the grits. Then polish.
To assemble the earring
we're gonna need a ring of about 8. millimeters in diameter and a hook for
each of them. To open the rings, use two flat-nosed pliers is going to
to make the work much easier and to handle the earring easier
insert the hook into the ring first. And then place it in the piece
Close it and they're ready.
Here you can see several examples using different tones and gradients, not only
the two colors that we have used in the tutorial
I hope you liked it and thank you for watching. See you in the next video!
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