- You've got a small block Chevy in your car,
and you need more power on a budget.
And, that's what you're going to find out about
on this episode of Engine Masters.
(engine parts moving) (dramatic music)
(chorus singing) (engine roaring)
This is Engine Masters, presented by AMSOil,
and, man, am I going to get a lot of flack for this episode,
because, yes, it's another small block Chevy,
and this is going to be real basic.
But, here's my defense.
I meet with a lot of aftermarket manufacturers,
and I as them, "What's your biggest selling part number?"
And, invariably, it is some tchotchke
for a small block Chevy.
LS engines may be super hot,
Fords and MoPars may be cool,
but the fact remains that the small block Chevy
still outsells everything else
in the muscle car marketplace,
and we still get questions from people going,
"Man, I just want to hop up the 350 in my truck,"
or whatever.
This engine is based on the architecture
founded in 1955, and they made these things
all the way through 2003 in some vans,
and Chevy still sells them as crate engines.
The 350, which is what this is, started in 1969.
There's a zillion of em.
Now, let's look at the absolute basic package
that we're going to be running on this show.
The engine is a crate motor from a place called
First Mate Automotive.
I bought it from Summit Racing for 1,399 bucks.
I mean, it is
basic.
Cast pistons, cast crank, minuscule flat tap-it cam shaft,
nothing trick, but for that price,
you get everything from the long block,
including a cam shaft, front cover, oil pan, valve covers,
but not the accessories.
Let me show you how I packaged this thing out.
Up top, Holley's most affordable and basic carburetor.
This is an aluminum version of the 1850,
which is a 600 CFM vacuum secondary,
single feed carburetor.
Our intake manifold is a basic low-rise dual plane
from Speed Master, that's 152 bucks.
The ignition system is an HEI, which GM came out with
in, I think, 1974, it means High Energy Ignition.
It has a coil and a module and the trigger
and everything right there.
That's your whole ignition system, 136 bucks.
The Excel 4000 Series wires are about 40 bucks.
These are Flow Tech one and 5/8 inch headers
for an early Chevelle, 152 bucks.
So, we're talking pretty cheap, pretty basic,
and watch this, cause it is going to make power
like you've never seen.
Really.
(dramatic music) (lights clicking on)
(engine firing)
(engine roaring)
We're going to start at 2,200.
My torque number is way wrong.
- Whoa, what a dog!
- It's a dog!
It made a lot more torque than I thought.
Call up the numbers, what was that?
You know what, it just sounds lame, doesn't it?
It's like, "Baw!"
(laughing)
So, our torque is 334.9 at 3,200 RPM.
I guessed it was going to peak at 2,800 RPM.
And, our horsepower is 235.7 at 4,100 RPM.
We're going to find out what happens when we add
a point of compression, a better cylinder head,
and 35 degrees more cam time.
- [Steve D.] 35 degrees?
- Well yeah, we're going to that 230 Magnum,
and this is a 194 in 50 cam.
- Wow. - So, 36 degrees.
- We might be able to make one horsepower per cubic inch.
- I think we're going to make it better than that.
- More than one horsepower per cubic inch?
- [Steve B.] Yeah.
- You think we're going to pick up 100 horsepower?
- With a good head and cam, shouldn't this thing
make 350 horsepower?
- We'll have to do another bet sheet.
- Yeah, I don't know.
You ready to wrench?
- Sure.
(laughing)
- Dude, that was bleak.
Can you imagine stabbing a brand new 350 Chevy into your car
and then telling your friends that you got less
than 240 horsepower?
Awkward.
I hope we're going to fix that right now, though.
Here are the key problems with that engine.
First of all, minuscule cam shaft, almost non-existent.
194 degrees of duration at 50,000 slip,
less than 400 thousandths lift on that turd.
We're going to solve that with a Comp cams 280 Magnum,
which is 230, 230 degrees of duration at 50,
and it has 480 thousandths lift.
It's a flat tap-it, just like the other one.
It's fairly affordable, it's 195 bucks
if you want to get the cam and lifter package,
so depending on what you need, you can decide
which kit you're going to buy there.
Next up, we got to look at the cylinder heads.
Now, these things appear almost identical,
but there are big differences.
On my left here, I've got the Swirl Port head
that came off of our crate engine.
This was used in 91 and earlier Chevy trucks,
and, basically, it's a complete turd.
Even though, it looks like a Vortec head
because it has those center bolt valve covers and stuff,
it's not.
This is a Vortec head.
These were used on 350 Chevies with the L31 designation.
From 1996 to the year 2000,
they were only in trucks and SUVs.
And, the things is you can still pick them up
in junk yards, that's the great thing about them.
There are some drawbacks, though.
The biggie is that they won't handle a lot
of valve lift without machining,
because the bottom of the retainer hits
the top of the valve guide.
You can only put about 450 thousandths lift in em,
before you run into a problem.
They also have press-in rocker studs,
just like this Swirl Port head,
and you get a lot of valve string pressure on em,
those tend to pop out.
So, you want to modify em to have
a screw-in stud, just like this one has been modified.
The other thing is you'll often find
in the aftermarket heads
that they'll put bigger valves in em.
Blueprint Engines, actually did this set of Vortecs for us,
and they've got a 2.02 inch intake valve,
instead of the stock 194.
The really big deal here, though,
is that the intake port on the Vortec
is so much superior than it is on the Swirl Port,
it's ridiculous.
And,
if you look at the chamber,
this is your standard smog era, garbage bath tub of a
combustion chamber,
whereas here on the Vortec,
you've got a much nicer heart-shaped chamber,
more of a modern design,
and this is 64 CCs, instead of 76,
that means that we're going to take our crate engine
from 8.25 to one with a Swirl Port head
to 9.2 to one with a Vortec head
and that is going to be a really big deal.
Next up, you're going to have to consider your intake manifold
if you're changing from a Swirl Port head, or an older one,
to a Vortec head.
Now, this is a Speed Master intake manifold.
It is designed to run both the TPI pattern
or the classic, old-school pattern that you'd find
in, like, a 69 Camaro or 74 Monte Carlo.
The old-school pattern, all of the bolts
go in at the same angle.
The TPI pattern on this Swirl Port head
is different in the middle, just like it would be
on, like, an 87 TPI Camaro.
The Speed Master intake has adapters to do both,
but it won't fit a Vortec head,
because the Vortec head intake has bolts that go
straight up and down, and they also take a different
intake gasket for that reason.
Now, this intake manifold, for the classic set-up,
is about 152 bucks.
This one for the Vortec's almost 170,
so you do need to keep that in mind
if you're being budget conscious.
Speaking of which,
if you don't want to scrounge the junkyards
for your Vortec heads,
I like a place called Scoggin Dickey.
It's a Chevy dealership, and they offer a package of
brand new heads with all of these upgrades on em.
They're 890 bucks, but
you can do it much cheaper if you scrounge on your own,
and when you do, you're going to make a whole bunch more power,
or at least that's the theory.
And, we're going to go find out if it's true, right now.
(futuristic metallic sounds warping)
(upbeat rock music)
Out with the world's smallest cam shaft.
I got this Comp Cams, what they call a K-kit,
which comes with a cam, lifters, timing chain,
some valve seals,
and springs and retainers.
Everything that you need.
Let's guide that cam in,
and boom, no fancy installation tool required.
Dots are lined up, simple as it gets.
No degreeing of the cam shaft, here.
These three bolts here on the end of the cam,
sometimes you'll see a locking plate on em,
which is a really good idea.
In this case, I would brake clean em
and get rid of all the oil and use Loctite on em.
Really don't want these backing out.
(socket wrench clicking)
Alright, we just slapped the cam in,
and as usual, with a flat tap-it,
you have to break in the cam with a special oil.
AMSOil makes that break-in oil.
Once that's been run through the engine,
this time, we're using an oil you've never seen
on Engine Masters, the OE line from AMSOil.
It's a 10-30, this is an affordable synthetic oil.
It's about five bucks a quart,
and that's why they thought it would be the perfect thing
for our low-buck, little small block Chevy here, but
first up, we got to make sure that this cam doesn't go bad.
Ah, so much easier with no valve cover, right?
Winning.
Intake manifold, I pre-fit it,
so I'm pretty sure this is going to work.
And.
- [Steve D] Ooh, perfect squish.
- Perfection.
Here's the difference between a vacuum secondary
and a double pumper carburetor,
see this vacuum pod right here,
it senses air speed through the venturi up here,
which creates a pressure drop,
which opens up the secondaries.
On this thing, it's all mechanical,
and this thing
the 1850 carburetor,
only has a primary accelerator pump discharge nozzle,
which we also call a squirter.
Whereas, a double pumper pumps twice.
It has one in the front and one in the back.
Way more betterer.
So now, once again, Brule has been
through the tuning process,
he knows the answer.
I have my number's written down,
but let's wait until we actually pull it
to see who's right.
- I'll be right. - Got yours right there.
- I never get to play cause I always have to tune it first.
- I know.
Not always, only sometimes.
(engine fires)
So, to review,
different carburetor in the same CFL,
slightly different intake manifold,
but essentially the same,
better cylinder head,
much more cam shaft,
one more point of compression.
- And both were stock heads, too.
- Yeah.
- You know production OEM heads.
- Alright, let's see what we pick up.
- [Steve B.] Alright, you guys ready?
(dramatic music) (lights clicking)
(engine fires)
(engine roars)
- [David] Killin it!
- That's a lot of improvement. - That's a lot!
(laughing)
- That's totally worth it.
- That's way over 100 horsepower.
- Let's see what it did.
- [Group] Wow!
- [David] We just made 397 pound feet of torque at 4,000 RPM
and 364.9 horsepower at
5,500.
We made 130 horsepower.
- Looked like heroes, huh?
- (laughing) A hundred and!
That's like a 50% gain,
almost, 40% gain.
- But, see if we had something that made one horsepower
and turned it into two, it would be 100% gain, so
we had some room to grow.
- We had 62 pound feet, let's see the overlay
before and after.
- [Steve D.] That's, like, a whole different engine now.
- [Group] Whoa!
(laughing)
- Wow, obviously, these lines way down here
are our base line, with the original heads
and everything on it.
And, up here is everything we just did.
There is no way to overstate the difference
this feels like in the car.
It's ridiculous. - Well, it's
125 shot of nitrous, all the time.
- All the time. - Wow.
- Okay, are you ready for this?
- Are you? - Yes.
- The envelope, please. - Yep.
- Don't pull out the wrong envelope.
- Let's hear yours first. - Academy Awards style.
385 torque at 4,200,
so I was 10 foot pounds off and
100 RPM off.
- Okay. - That's good.
- What about you?
- For torque? - Yeah.
- 402 at 3,900. - Ooh.
- You were closer than me. - Closer.
- Yep.
At what RPM?
- [David] I called 3,900 and it did at 4,000.
- It said 4,000, so you're 100 off, as well, that's, wow!
- 375 at 5,600.
- 365 at 5,500.
(moans) (laughing)
- Why do we need a Dyno?
Why?
- That was dead nuts! - Boom!
- [Steve D.} Nice Job There, Freiburger.
- Should I tell him?
- (laughing) No, you didn't?
You cheated?
(moans) You got me again.
(laughing)
- You were close, but you know what, though,
is you didn't know the torque.
- No, I didn't know the torque.
- And, that was a good shot,
that was a good shot on the torque
within just a couple of pound feet, so
excellent job.
- He told me the power number.
He said, "Oh, 60."
And, I went from there.
- Aw, dude.
- But still, amazing. - So, you back-calculated?
- Way good.
- And, you know what, that's not really
an expensive thing to do.
- Well, I did all the math on that.
I'll tell you exact numbers on how much that all cost
when we do our wrap-up.
- Okay, I'll be all ears, let's go.
- Go!
So, here's the cha-ching on the whole deal.
- Okay, let's hear it.
- So, I added up every dime it cost to duplicate this.
I mean, gasket, everything, with the exception
of the electric water pump, the two-piece front cover
and the water deck. - Okay.
- Everything.
So, step one, that made 237 whopping horsepower.
- Weakling. - 2,250 bucks.
- Pretty cheap, though, for all new.
- It's, actually, it is.
This, though, in the 365 horsepower configuration
3,550, it's a difference of 1,300 bucks.
- You know, for the power gain.
- Totally worth it.
- I don't think there's any way
you can get it cheaper than that.
- The thing is I know a lot of people
are going to look at those numbers and go,
"I can put a Turbo LS in my car for that!"
And, you know what, with scrounging, you probably could,
but what do you think you could put this together with?
What are you spending?
- You could find the heads
in classifieds or machine shops or
even a wrecking yard,
you could get all this stuff a lot cheaper than,
you know, your retial price, so.
- Yeah, I bet you we could make this happen for 1,800 bucks,
something like that. - Oh yeah, probably.
- That was really my point,
to show people if you've got, like,
your 82 Chevy truck driving around,
this is the type of package you can look for,
and it's the cheapest way I think you're going to get
350/360 horsepower.
- Practically any small-block Chevy 350
can take these parts, even an old one.
- Like you told me,
"You can never go wrong with a 350 Chevy."
- I like it. - Yeah.
- Now.
- (laughing) Now?
It was a turd before?
But, now it's good. - I didn't like it before.
- But, wait till you see what we do with this thing, next.
It's actually going to be really good.
I'll just give you a hint.
(whispering) Boost. - Oh boy.
- Yeah. - I can't wait.
- See ya next time on Engine Masters, presented by AMSOil
and supported by Mr. Gasket and Earl's Vapor Guard Plumbing.
So, why do they call a poly-lock, a poly-lock?
- Because it has more than one part, two parts.
Poly means more than one.
It's from ancient Greek.
- [David] Whoa, I'm impressed.
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