I started climbing at 18 years old.
With only 20 years old, when I saw the lines I thought that
I would like to create something like that. Bolting.
A friend of mine, El Mechas, told me that many years ago.
I came, I saw it, I liked it. I liked it very much.
There was the whole virgin wall, and well,
I have spent 5 years of my life bolting here, in this crag.
The first route was the one that caught my attention.
And one of the most climbed ones. "Sensación de pinzar".
One of the ones that I liked the most,
and also one of the most expensives one for me.
Because when I started bolting,
since the wall is 120 meters high,
I had to go down by making several intermediate descents.
And looking at the wall, a tufa went and fell.
It fell on top of a drill that had gasoline.
A Ryobi. It was my first experience
with the route, with the equipment.
We have known Sucina and Agustín in Bielsa for 16 years.
And when we have come here, we hallucinated.
They are super nice routes.
For the first, "Sensación de Pinzar",
it is worth crossing all of Spain to climb it, as beautiful as it is.
Of tufas and knees.
All routes are 5 stars. It is a phenomenal wall.
Routes of 40 meters, tufas. Very nice.
Almost all natural, practically.
As I liked bolting, well, I didn't care going and bolting.
I took my time to bolt.
Thing that today, many generations say:
I do not want to waste time bolting.
I want to climb.
Well, maybe, the ones we carry bolting in our blood
think in a different way.
Create a route, clean it ...
Think the movements, and see how beautiful it is.
And that people enjoy it later by climbing it.
At least, that's how we think about almost all of us who bolt.
Close to my area is the Cabezo Gordo.
Through my mountain club, they let me have a gas drill.
Almost no experience, but with a lot of motivation
I said "Ok, I'll try what it is to put a parabolt."
There I left a line bolted. It's called "Octavía."
Since it was overhang a lot, and the movements did not go very well,
I had to stick stones. I put in holds, too.
Resin holds. The things we did back in the day, 20, 25 years ago.
And with the passing of time, the holds and the rocks
were removed and it stayed as a 8b+ kind of.
In principle you bolt and you see there are movements that you
can't make, or you can't imagine making them out.
But the years go by, and you see it as an evolution.
And that the impossible can be possible, of course.
And well, from there we continue bolting in Murcia,
in the Puerto de la Cadena. And then I would arrive at Cabezón de Oro.
After I came to this area I started with El Ferrari,
that was also a fortuitous discovery.
Walking I saw the wall. I saw what it could offer.
And there I started to bolt routes. Walking I saw the wall. I saw what it could offer.
And there I started to bolt routes.
And shortly after bolting there in El Ferrari,
going down, walking I discovered what is El Perea.
I would differentiate the ones we have learned to climb
on rock and those who have learned to climb on the climbing wall.
Maybe we, the ones who learned on the rock,
we really value the environment where we move.
We respect the natural environment very much.
We do not usually harm nature or break plants, throw rocks.
But the people who leave the climbing wall maybe look
more for the sporting zeal than the environment that surrounds them.
Another issue is to use a brush on the routes. Clean them.
Because you see a lot of people who try and try and do not clean.
The magnesium stays there. That also causes the rock to deteriorate.
With the passage of time, it polish out.
Going down the Rambla Perea, to my astonishment, it appeared.
Overhang routes, a sandstone with a lot of holes, a lot of jugs.
Routes up to 40 meters, super beautiful.
The first route I bolted, well, only with chemicals
I dedicated it to my sister, the "Soledad".
And as easy as it was, to my surprise, it was not that easy.
Then I bolted a second one, the "Joana, 8b".
I bolted a third one, the "Antonia", which I dedicated to my mother.
And, little by little, I went bolting the wall.
Then we got into the left part of the crag.
It is the one that has more height, and more broken it seemed.
However, they were great jugs, not harmful.
Something awesome. One hell of a rock!
We already saw that the glue in U-bolt was working well.
But as our purchasing power did not
allowed it, we said to make it ourselves.
With iron rods that we bend and cinch.
They have been on the wall for 20 years and they are almost unchanged.
They are not even rusted.
Of course, bolting with glue in U-bolt is a little bit heavier.
But they are equipments that remain for life.
We do not receive subsidies.
Which means, all the work that goes into bolting,
we finance all the material and movement. Which means, all the work that goes into bolting,
we finance all the material and movement.
At 20 bolts. And each one with the parabolt cost about € 1.5.
Plus the belay station. It's about € 40 one route, about 20 bolts. More or less.
Around Spain I think I have about 500 routes.
25 years bolting. And what I have left.
Go, take the look.
Son of a bitch! Fuck the sun and fuck everything, man.
It's nothing, fuck man.
It is a well false take!
what a fall!
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