I'm here in a Hong Kong village just five minutes away from the Chinese border
to visit one of our finalists - Jesse - to see why he thinks
the road to sustainable fashion begins at home.
Hi Jesse!
How are you?
I'm good.
I can't wait to see your home!
So when did this love for sustainable fashion begin?
The beginning is from my family album
and I saw my Dad and Mum hang out,
and my Mum really love to wear my Dad's jacket to take photos.
Oh that's so cute!
Yeah, and that inspired me to do a collection
that is inspired by love and family and share.
My Mum, she always love to keep her old clothes
because she believes that fashion is a cycle,
and also they're full of memory in the clothes too.
Wow, so this is your workshop?
Yes, and also my living room!
So here's all of these pieces that you've got inspiration from.
It's all from my Mum's wardrobe.
Actually this jacket inspired me to do the one that's made with umbrellas,
so I just want to do a jacket that you can just share with your friends.
One size fits all.
Yeah.
So here are some of the actual umbrellas that you've upcycled.
My Grandma loves to collect umbrellas
even if it works, broken or not. - Really?!
My Grandma and Mum just love to re-use and recycle stuff.
Oh my goodness, that is amazing!
Can I try it on?
Of course! - Ok.
It looks great on you!
Thank you!
Amazing!
Having Cara G to my house was just amazing.
This is a part of my coat!
Yes!
She's really kind of my girl!
Actually this too... - Oh that's so adorable!
because my mum is really active,
in this photo she runs with her skirt,
and it makes it look like trousers.
That inspired me to do a trousers
that can transform into a skirt as well.
So this is the skirt pants.
Yeah, and it also fit everyone, like me and you
You can totally hand these down.
I really want to do the pieces that I can like
give them to my son, or my son can save it for my grandson,
yeah that's like my core elements in my design.
I think emotion and passion is
like a main core for me to do fashion design
because I want my design to communicate and interact with the wearers.
So, I really put these two elements in my design
and I hope everyone can feel it.
Although the road to sustainable fashion may begin at home,
can it go hand in hand with mass manufacturing?
We have just crossed the Chinese border
and I'm super excited because it's my first time in China.
China still reigns as the world's largest garment manufacturer,
but for some people the 'Made In China' label still provokes negative reactions.
If I'm thinking about large scale factories
I will think that the reputation is not that good.
So I will like to see if it's possible
to really have sustainable steps in a huge production.
Today the designers are visiting TAL at their largest factory in Dongguan.
This factory employs over 3,000 staff
who produce 30,000 shirts every single day.
At the beginning of the line we have other cut panels here.
I have never been in such a big factory so for me
it was shocking to see the scale of the production.
Normally the wastage here is not quite high,
but the quality of the lining sometimes do cause higher wastage.
Seeing how incredibly fast they're producing a garment
and then you just know there will be so many of that thing out in the world,
it's overwhelming.
As like small emerging designers,
it even makes our impact seem like very, very insignificant.
This is the cutting waste from 18 shirts.
You can imagine the output of this factory is about 30,000 every day,
and this is only for 18 pieces, so you can think about that amount.
TAL is a leader in China in making sustainability a big part of what they do.
From minimizing and recycling textile waste,
to keeping their factories running as efficiently as possible.
I was actually quite impressed with the efforts to reduce the amount of waste,
especially on a factory of that scale which you don't often expect.
Sometimes the customer may insist on requesting
some feature of the garment that will increase the waste.
Technical people will talk to the customer,
communicate and educate our customer,
by proposing some good methods
to control the quality as well as save the fabric.
The factory is also on a mission to increase communication
between designers and brands,
so that they can decrease the environmental impact of each garment produced.
The designer, they have their design ideas, the concept,
but they don't know the real manufacturing process in factories.
What's the consumption of the fabric? What causes the wastage?
So when they come to the factory,
it helps them to protect the Earth Mother better from their design.
That's the front and that's the back but it can be reversible.
What about this part?
This can be detached this, and this, and this, can be separate.
To put this in action
the designers get into teams and are challenged to design a women's shirt,
working alongside the factory experts,
to make sure they achieve sustainability without compromising on style.
Ok I understand, the cuff and the sleeve can be detached.
So next, I will explain to my technician
to see whether or not your pattern is as good as your design idea,
they can fit together.
Great, thank you!
I found it very shocking that there isn't
more communication between the designers and the manufacturers.
So this is an amazing opportunity for us as young designers,
and we are learning so much from everyone here.
The design of the collar,
if they put the direction differently there's a chance to save fabric.
Oh, can we do that?
Yes they're trying that.
Every designer should come to a factory.
These are the people who really create the garment,
who's labour is behind it, you know it's very important.
We're just finishing off our final shirt,
and she's been amazing, she's been working non-stop.
I think as designers,
we tend to over design and once we collaborate with these people here,
we were able to edit down our designs.
And so we cut out trimmings, we cut out seams,
we really eliminated the waste, at the cutting stage.
I've definitely started thinking about how do you
integrate the values of sustainability into mass manufacturing.
What would you say we could improve on the making,
or the cutting stage of this shirt?
Just pay attention to the fabric quality.
You guys need to know more about the construction,
know more about the sewing, you know, the shrinkage.
Thank you so much.
Seeing how these people could make things possible,
of course, I will have like really different mind
in the future when I will be designing.
In the past some designers just close the door,
they don't want to talk about it with the factory.
They say 'that's my design, you have to keep it as it is.'.
But today we communicate with all these finalists,
we see they're very open to the manufacturing side.
So we can work together to make the whole process,
and to make the environment better.
Thank you.
Amazing, that's great.
Before heading home, the designers are invited to
the monthly birthday party the factory holds for its employees.
This month, over 300 workers are celebrating their birthday.
It was really great to see that they've got that sort of community
there that they can entertain each other a bit.
So that was good to see, yeah.
Next time on Frontline Fashion,
judging day has arrived.
I feel weirdly calm.
Shall we start?
But are the designers prepared to be grilled by our panel of experts?
How will you grade this?
Have you washed them yourself?
Join us to find out.


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