Cultivation of potatoes. Full technology in one video...
The average yield of potatoes in ordinary farms...
is about 150 kg with 100 square meters.
We collect from a hundred parts - 400-600 kg of tubers.
Knowing and following the basic rules...
even a beginner gardener is able to grow a minimum of 400 kg.
From this video you will learn these key knowledge...
- our technology of growing potatoes.
We divided the process of cultivation into 7 stages.
If you want to know only something specific...
and do not want to watch the video completely...
just click in the description below the video you want.
Stage 1 st. Choose and prepare the plot in autumn
First, we select a suitable plot for potatoes.
To prevent the accumulation of pests and diseases in the soil...
we observe a crop rotation.
Therefore, we grow potatoes every year in a new place.
And we plant tubers on the same site not earlier than in 2 years.
Then we add organic fertilizers for digging.
We mulch the garden with hay.
Over the summer, the grass almost completely pereprevaet and saturates the soil with organic fertilizers.
Therefore, in the autumn, it remains for us to simply dig a site.
So we mix the soil layers.
And, incidentally, we repair the remains of hay left after the summer mulching...
that they too pereprel.
If we did not mulch the garden in the summer...
we introduce overgrown cow dung and composts of own preparation.
Stage 2-nd. Prepare the plot in the spring.
First we introduce mineral fertilizers.
We use a complex fertilizer - nitroammophoska.
It contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
We are contributing nitroammophos from the calculation...
2-3 kilograms of fertilizer for every 100 square meters of the site.
Then we harrow.
To seal the fertilizer in the soil and to cover the moisture, we process the plot with rakes.
And we do it in the spring immediately, as soon as the ground was thawed and dried up sufficiently...
so as not to stick to the tools.
On dirt - can not be processed, it will destroy the structure of the soil.
Stage 3-rd. We prepare the planting material.
First we count how many tubers we need to land.
For 100 square meters you need to choose about 500-600 potato tubers.
Therefore, we count on the basis of the future width of the rows between rows...
and the distances between the tubers in the row.
We have a row spacing of 80 cm. The distance between the tubers in the row is 20-25 cm.
Less - for early varieties. More - for late varieties.
Then we select the best planting potatoes in the repository.
To accurately have enough tubers to plant...
we consider 20-100 percent more than necessary.
The fact is that in warm winters the potatoes begin to germinate already in the cellar.
For further germination we choose tubers with only full sprouts.
Ripe potatoes with threadlike shoots are left for food...
for planting it is not suitable.
If the quality of the shoots is clearly visible already in the vault...
choose the number of tubers with a stock of all percent 20.
Of course, this is taking into account the cutting of large potatoes.
And circumcision of the tips of tubers without germs in the lower part.
If the shoots are not yet visible, we consider a stock of 100 percent...
- it happens at low temperatures in the storage, after a cold winter.
Next - sprouting! A couple of weeks before landing...
Selected tubers are placed on an unheated porch...
with a temperature of at least 7-8 degrees Celsius.
We lay out in one layer on the floor in wooden boxes.
Cover with sackcloth in 2-4 layers...
to create optimal conditions for germination.
We do not grow potatoes in the light to avoid losses.
Not sprouted potatoes are suitable for food.
And in the light it will turn green and become poisonous due to the formation of solanine.
And then it will have to be thrown away.
And do not sprout with moisture to avoid rooting before planting.
After planting tender roots will be damaged...
- it's wounds, an open gate for tuber disease.
Then we select and cut.
After this operation, 3 main tuber fractions are obtained.
1-st - planting potatoes.
These are whole tubers, halves and tops, and a few small ones with excellent sprouts.
2nd - prunings and tubers without shoots, suitable for food.
3rd - tubers sick, rotten...
- not suitable for food, or for planting, in garbage.
Next, dry the cut tubers for scarring the slices.
Dry the cut tubers 2-3 days...
in the light, cut upwards and without covering with sacking.
A thin and strong protective layer forms on the slices.
The last preparatory operation is etching.
Spray the tubers to protect against pests and diseases.
We treat with a systemic drug...
which is completely destroyed before the ripening of the crop.
If there is no Colorado beetle in your area...
and the potatoes are not sick, this operation is superfluous.
Stage 4-th. We plant the planting material.
If necessary, moisten organic fertilizers beforehand.
1-2 days before planting...
Too much rotted manure or compost thoroughly watered.
If you do not have time to water before landing...
necessarily water organic fertilizers in the grooves...
before they fall asleep with their land.
If necessary, water and plot.
Arid in the spring, we also necessarily water the soil before planting the potatoes.
Friendly shoots are obtained only in moist soil.
If the soil moisture is order, immediately mark the plot.
We mark on the ground the beginning of rows through 80 cm.
Potatoes are photophilic, and should be well illuminated by the sun...
throughout the daylight hours.
Therefore, we have rows from the south to the north.
Accordingly, the labels are located on the southern and northern sides.
The distance from the edge of the plot to the row is at least 40 cm.
In order not to trample down the markup we put temporary stick-markers.
We always use pins and a cord...
this greatly simplifies the whole care of potatoes...
starting from planting, and up to digging up the site after harvesting.
Next, prepare the wood ashes for application.
For 100 square meters we measure about one 10-liter bucket of ash.
We sift to remove the coals and excess inclusions.
Then mix the wood ash with water to get a heavy free-flowing mass.
The ash is too dusty without this operation...
and even with a weak wind it is difficult to work with.
Then we dig grooves and grind the soil.
To grind the soil, digging, grabbing strata of earth up to 5 cm thick.
If you grab more, it's harder to dig, and too much clods of soil are obtained...
which when falling asleep break down sprouts.
The bottom of the grooves is aligned with periodic longitudinal movements of the shovel.
Even more bottom - shoots are friendly.
After that, we introduce mineral fertilizers.
Sypem at the bottom of each groove along the entire length of a little nitroammophoski.
At the rate of 1 kg of fertilizer per 100 square meters.
It's about half a cup for every 10 meters of the row.
With this top dressing the potatoes will reach out to the nutrients...
even at the very beginning of growth.
Further we mix mineral fertilizers with soil.
To do this, lightly loosen the soil on the bottom of the grooves.
So we are mixing the nitroammophoska with the soil...
so as not to burn with concentrated fertilizer tubers and sprouts.
And at the same time we get a loose layer of earth.
After that, we plant our planting material.
We spread the tubers along the entire length of the grooves, closer to the center.
After 20 cm - for early potatoes. And after 25 cm - for late varieties.
We have as much germs as possible.
Then we make the previously prepared wood ash.
We divide all the ashes into as many parts as we have allocated rows.
And evenly scatter each dose of ash directly to the tubers, laid on the bottom of the groove.
Further we pour organic fertilizers.
Our site has already been fertilized with organic from autumn.
But the closer to the bushes, the higher the concentration of roots.
Therefore, we pour organic fertilizers into grooves.
This is a dumped manure or compost.
Organic fertilizers are easier than soil and therefore less damage to the shoots.
We almost fall asleep with them tubers...
and this partially protects the shoots before subsequently falling asleep.
Attention!
If you fill the tubers with hay, and then dig in the soil, the potatoes do not rise!
If necessary, protect from the bear.
In case of infection of the site of the bear...
We are injecting a remedy from this pest into the grooves...
before they fall asleep with their land.
Further - we dig in. Gently fall asleep with the help of rakes.
First we take the earth a little...
so as not to break it...
Delicate potato sprouts are too bulk and heavy portions of soil.
Above the grooves we form a small crest, taking into account the subsidence of the soil during irrigation.
Then slightly level the ridges. We flatten the ridges along the length of the rows with rakes.
The same layer of soil above the tubers gives more amicable shoots.
And at the end of the planting we loose the row spacing.
When landing between rows, they trample down heavily with their feet.
Therefore, we loosen to prevent the formation of cracks in the ground...
and avoid loss of moisture.
Stage 5-th. We look after the potatoes.
When emergence protects against frost.
Potato plants are damaged...
when the air temperature drops below 0 degrees Celsius.
Damaged plants are sick, delayed in growth, and reduce yield.
Therefore, we closely monitor the weather.
And, in case of frosts, we protect potatoes...
artificial shelters, or by easy hilling.
Then we timely dwell.
This method gives the formation of additional roots and tubers.
We first congee - at a plant height of 8-10 cm.
The second time at a height of 20-25 cm.
Before hilling, water the ground. And, if possible, we feed wood ash.
A quarter or a half of a 10-liter bucket is enough...
on 100 square meters.
Under adverse weather conditions for the first hilling...
We plant potatoes completely at a time.
But, in any case, always before the flowering begins!
Then we conduct mulching.
We mulch potatoes with hay just like other crops.
This gives 4 benefits.
Less loss of moisture. The root system does not overheat. No weeds.
Hay preet, fertilizing the soil organic.
And the whole period of growing regularly watered.
Approximately once a week, in the absence of significant rains...
we spend sprinkling...
by means of an independently improved sprinkler.
The norm for each watering: 30-50 liters of water per square meter.
If necessary, protect from pests and diseases.
In our case, the potato usually does not get sick.
And there is no Colorado beetle.
Because we carefully prepare the planting material.
Wireworm is also under control, thanks to the introduction of wood ash.
If, for some reason, pests still appear...
quickly we receive measures.
And we use only drugs that can completely decompose...
before harvesting.
This is especially important for early potatoes.
Stage 6th. We are harvesting.
First selectively dig early potatoes for eating in the summer.
Tubers begin to form during the flowering period.
But the maximum size is reached when the tops turn yellow and dry.
Between these two periods, the potatoes are carefully broken and selected for food.
Or even completely dig out individual bushes.
Then completely dig out the early potatoes and select the planting material.
By the time of mass yellowing and drying out the tops...
By the length of the row in the ground, a practically continuous roll of tubers is formed.
First we dig out the early potatoes...
so as not to leave it in the ground while the late potatoes are ripe.
Otherwise, the tubers will overheat, rot, or germinate.
Dig up and, at the same time, choose the best bushes for planting.
Criteria for seed selection...
8-20 medium and large tubers, characteristic for a variety of size...
color, shape.
And we continue to water the late potatoes regularly.
Next, remove the late potatoes and choose to land.
We start harvesting the tubers when the tops turn yellow or dry.
We dig and immediately sort into two fractions: for food and for planting.
We put the tops into heaps for drying.
Potatoes have big and heavy bushes.
And if we harvest, when the leaves are not quite dry...
taking her away from the site is difficult, and uncomfortable.
Therefore we throw nearby, where the harvest is already excavated, forming small piles.
In such a way as to do without walking.
Heap heap we have obtained throughout the site...
and approximately 2-4 meters from each other.
Stage 7th. Prepare a site for other crops.
First we remove the dry tops.
To do this, before the autumn digging, completely free the site...
from the heap of potato leaves left after harvesting.
Dry heaps become light and do not break apart when harvesting with pitchforks.
The plant is useful to us for sheltering for the winter beds with garlic.
We also lay the potato residues in the compost.
Or burn, to get wood ash.
If necessary, remove excess hay.
In late spring - early summer, we mulch potatoes...
and all the rest of the beds, sen.
Therefore, after harvesting in the aisles, the grass is not completely overgrown.
This hay we bury in the ground when digging a site.
But, if there is so much grass left...
that it even hinders to dig - selectively we remove surpluses with rakes and pitchforks.
These rests of mulch are composted, we cover the podzimnie vegetable beds.
Or leave in piles for mulching next year - for not solanaceous cultures.
Then we dig the aisles of the old plot for other crops.
And in the autumn we dig through pitchforks or a shovel...
only the aisle of the potato plot.
After all, the ranks have already been thoroughly and thoroughly interrupted earlier in the harvesting process.
For the right crop rotation, we grow potatoes every year in a new place.
Therefore, in the autumn, before digging up the site...
carefully think through the plan for planting the next year.
From planning depends on what fertilizer we will make under the digging...
and whether they will be made at all.
For example, it is undesirable to apply organic compounds for carrots...
otherwise the curve will grow. ;-)
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To all the big harvests!
With you were, Eugene and Tatiana Gordeev.
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