An Giang info: Youtube daily report Apr 29 2017

Hi Twilight!

Hi Rainbow!

Do you wanna go for a fly?

Sure!

Let's go!

[CHORUS] ♫ I'm a pony girl, in the pony world ♫

♫ Life with magic, it's fantastic! ♫

♫ You can make me fly, and take me to the sky ♫

♫ Imagination, magical creation ♫

Come on Twily, let's go flying!

♫ I'm a pony girl, in the pony world ♫

♫ Life with magic, it's fantastic! ♫

♫ You can make me fly, and take me to the sky ♫

♫ Imagination, magical creation ♫

♫ I'm a mare, alicorn, in Equestrian world ♫

♫ Make me fly, I'll go high, I'm your pony ♫

♫ I'm loyal to my friend, and loyal to the end ♫

♫ Let's go fly, quick so high, to the blue sky ♫

♫ You're too fast! ♫

♫ Why so slow? ♫

♫ Oh my gosh! ♫

♫ Where are we now? ♫

♫ Uu-oooh-u ♫

♫ [CHORUS] ♫

[BRIDGE] ♫ Come on Twily, let's go flying ♫

♫ Ah-ah-ah-yeah ♫

♫ Come on Twily, let's go flying ♫

♫ Uu-oooh-u ♫

♫ Come on Twily, let's go flying ♫

♫ Ah-ah-ah-yeah ♫

♫ Come on Twily, let's go flying ♫

♫ Uu-oooh-u ♫

♫ Let us sing, we're a thing, come RD, you can tease ♫

♫ Make me fly, I'll go high, I don't care who sees ♫

♫ Flap your wings, to the wind, bring your things, let's begin ♫

♫ Let's go fly, quick so high, to the blue sky ♫

♫ You're too fast! ♫

♫ Why so slow? ♫

♫ Oh my gosh! ♫

♫ Where are we now? ♫

♫ You're too fast! ♫

♫ Why so slow? ♫

♫ Oh my gosh! ♫

♫ Where are we now? ♫

♫ [BRIDGE] ♫

♫ [2x CHORUS] ♫

♫ [BRIDGE] ♫

For more infomation >> Pony Girl - Duration: 3:13.

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Pillons à l'indienne وجبه هنديه رائعه في المذاق والتقديم - Duration: 4:34.

For more infomation >> Pillons à l'indienne وجبه هنديه رائعه في المذاق والتقديم - Duration: 4:34.

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Make-a-Wish: Tommy has his wish granted by Carey Price - Duration: 2:12.

He's been following games ever since he was really young.

He for sure would've been a hockey player if he wasn't in a wheelchair.

It was really exciting, right up until we arrived and were outside the rink. It was really something.

At the start of the day we were really nervous.

Hockey is his passion. But seeing how he's in a wheelchair,

he hasn't been able to practice the sport a lot.

Have you always been a goalie?

He asked if you've always been a goalie?

Most of the time. I started out as a defenseman,

I switched when I was about nine.

So, all the time. He was also a defenseman,

but at nine years old he became a goalie.

At nine years old?

Yes, at nine years old.

Team Canada, huh. Wow!

Do you want to help him warm up?

Alright!

Want to shoot on him?

Just to see Stephane Waite push him all the way to Carey Price...

He couldn't believe it.

I told you that's what his weak spot was, didn't I?

It was definitely moving. It's exactly what he was hoping for.

He wanted to shoot on Carey.

Good!

You can say you scored on him twice

but don't tell anyone about his weaknesses!

Don't tell anyone how to score on him.

I had tears in my eyes.

Really, I saw him, he was having a blast.

For more infomation >> Make-a-Wish: Tommy has his wish granted by Carey Price - Duration: 2:12.

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How to Build Jet Aircraft Models | Video Workbench - Duration: 1:01:08.

- Welcome to the Video Workbench classic series

instructional video How to Build Jet Aircraft.

Now you can learn all the techniques for building

great looking jet aircraft straight from the box

without buying expensive aftermarket detailing parts.

From instrument panels to camouflage,

surface detailing to decals,

you'll learn skills that will make

any modern military aircraft model a show stopper.

Even though originally produced in 1992,

the techniques used in this video still cover

everything you need to get going with your model kit.

The examples shown here really haven't changed too much.

There is no definitive way of building a model kit.

Everyone has their own way of doing things

and with time, so will you.

This video teaches dozens of useful tips,

no matter what your skill level,

including what I consider the three import T's

of model kit building, tips, tools, and techniques.

I would like to talk a little bit about

the instructor in this video, Chris Wilson.

Chris Wilson is a professional prototype model builder.

He has won dozens of first place regional,

state and national IPMS modeling contests

for his science fiction and jet aircraft models.

I hope by watching this video that you walk away

with a better knowledge of how to safely

and correctly assemble a plastic model kit

along with having found or coming back into a hobby

that is very fun and rewarding.

Thank you and enjoy.

(upbeat music)

- [Man] Build only in a well-ventilated area.

Protective eyewear and a breathing apparatus

should be worn at all time.

- Hi, I'm Chris Wilson

and I'll be your host on Video Workbench.

In front of me is my MiG-29 Fulcrum in 132 scale.

This model has won seven awards including first place

in out-of-box at the IPMS Nationals in St. Louis.

I've been going to model contests for 12 years

and am currently employed as a prototype model maker.

I'm about to show you the various techniques I use

to build my models as well as give you some hints and tips

at what judges are looking for at contests.

I'll be using the MiG to demonstrate with,

but you can use these techniques to make any jet aircraft

look great and hopefully win some awards too.

So let's begin.

(upbeat music)

Now there are some must-have tools for hobbying

including hobby knives,

sandpaper ranging from 220 to 1200 grit wet or dry,

an old toothbrush, various types of tape

including drafting tape, fine line automotive tape,

scotch transparent tape, Post-it notepads,

an airbrush, super glue and liquid cement,

various sizes of brushes including a dust brush

as well as bottle caps to help you mix your paint in,

some needle files.

Some other items that are nice to have include tweezers,

an artist's inking pen,

a scribe tool as well as a steel ruler, a pen vise,

drill bits, small drill bits ranging in size from 60 to 80,

a punch and die set is useful

for punching circles out of decal paper, plastic.

(upbeat music)

You'll also need some reference material.

Laid out in front of me I've got several magazines

that you can pick up at your local hobby shop.

You can pick up videotapes at your hobby shops

as well as record stuff from TV.

A&E, Discovery, PBS all run good shows on aircraft.

Air shows are a good source.

Also have to choose a color scheme.

This is partially dependent on what decals are available.

For the MiG, I chose the Iraqi markings

and fortunately they were available.

I've got in front of me my reference materials,

which I've studied and familiarized myself

with the aircraft.

I've got the major pieces, which I'll be cutting

from the trees and test fitting.

I've got my instructions, which I don't recommend

following the construction sequence there.

Things like landing gear, tail cones, missiles

we'll save for a later point.

What I want to do is construct the model

to a point where it's ready to paint.

(upbeat music)

I've got in front of me all the parts

of the cockpit laid out.

I've got the instructions here as a reference.

I've got my photos, reference photos from various sources

and I'm preparing the parts.

As described earlier, I'm removing the mold seam

that runs around all the parts.

The sprue attachment points, I'm removing those.

I've gone ahead and spray painted

two halves of an ejection seat black here.

I'm gonna demonstrate dry brushing

using the black and some white.

Come in and take some black, little bit of white,

put the white off to the side

and I want to lighten the black just a little bit.

So I'm coming up with a dark gray shade.

Now...

I'm gonna take and dry the brush on a paper towel.

Till you're getting very little paint sticking.

So we've got an almost dry brush here.

We'll come in and just hit the part lightly

and what this does, the paint sticks to the high spots,

starting to lighten the higher spots.

(spray gun hissing)

We'll let that dry for a few minutes

and you'll be able to see the difference.

This ejection seat has already been dry brushed.

The cushions have been dry brushed

with olive drabs going from dark to light.

It's already been dull coated.

The sides have been dry brushed from dark to light

using the black and white

and we're ready to put seat belts on this seat.

And I'm gonna be using watercolor paint.

I've got some black here.

Put a little dab in a beer cap.

I use the watercolor to pick out small details and lines.

I like using watercolor because it's not permanent.

If you make a mistake, you can clean it off pretty easily.

Get a little bit and just touch it to a line

and allow it to flow into the lines.

I'm not worried about slop.

Because it's watercolor, it's easily removable.

I'll come in and remove that stuff in a moment.

I'm getting a nice hard outline

around all the gauges, instruments

that otherwise would have to be carefully hand painted.

This makes things much easier.

Okay, I'm gonna come in and clean off

the excess watercolor paints using a damp Q-tip.

Okay, now we've got the outlines of the gauges

painted with watercolor black.

Painting the insides will be much easier.

I'm coming in with black enamel.

And we'll just fill in the blanks.

Now I'm gonna come in and paint the gauges with white,

the numbers and dials.

A little bit of white oil paint

and then oil paint's easier to paint small details with

because it stays wet on your brush longer.

Just a little bit on the brush.

Adding color to cockpits.

When you look at photos of a cockpit,

there usually isn't a whole lot of color,

but you do need some.

In this case, I've got some color photos

so I'm just gonna match what's in the photo.

A little bit dab of red here.

Just a little bit of color.

Too much color usually looks kinda hokey.

To simulate the glass over the top of the gauges,

I'm gonna come in, put a little bit of gloss coat on.

In this case, I would say don't use any gloss you want.

Definitely use something water base

so the gloss doesn't soften your lacquers and clear coats

and distort your detail painting.

Okay, raised details,

I use more or less a dry brush technique.

I've got more paint on the brush

than I would use for dry brushing.

I come in and lay the brush on its edge,

come across and pick out the highlights.

I'm using a large brush

just moistened with a little bit of paint thinner.

Come in and wet the surface

and I'm coming in with a wash of gray oil

thinned with Turpenoid

and I'm gonna touch it to the corners and allow it to flow,

flow out.

Just touching spots here and there and it'll connect itself.

Now I'm going to dirty the cockpit up

and add some shadows with chalk pastel.

What I've got here is a stick of black chalk pastel.

Using the edge of a knife,

I'm gonna scrape a little bit of powder off,

take some pastel...

and put it in where there would be shadow and dirt.

Adds some life to an otherwise flat surface.

The pastel should be applied over a surface

that's been previously dull coated or a flat paint.

They don't stick well to gloss paints.

Now, fitting our painted cockpit tub into the fuselage

we see that the sidewall here looks blank.

It's got some mold marks on it.

It needs something.

You can also see the top around the instrument shroud.

It looks thick and out of scale.

So what we can do,

come in...

thin the edges of this with file

or scrape it with an X-Acto till that's thin.

We'll come in and sand this molding defects

off the sidewall here.

I'm gonna paint some detail on there.

Now, in here you see I've sanded

the detail away on the sides,

come in and painted and penciled in small lines in here,

actually just pencil lead,

put some detail in there.

See I've got my pastels, I've got my washes.

Instrument panel, I've got the gauges glossed over.

I've already attached the control stick.

I've got the shroud thinned.

We're ready to go ahead and attach our ejection seat

and do our finishing details along the outside surfaces.

Now because I built my MiG

for out-of-the-box at the IPMS Nationals,

they don't allow any additions to the kit

except for paper seat belts and paper seat belt buckles,

no aftermarket buckles, no bent up wire buckles.

So what I'm doing here is cutting some strips

of in this case TV Guide.

Now I'm going to tape them down,

spray paint one side and spray paint the other side.

Cut them to length and glue them in.

Like I said, IPMS National's rules for out-of-the-box

don't allow aftermarket seat belt buckles.

So I'm gonna cut a little buckle,

a little bit of silver paint.

Okay, I'm taking the olive drab color

that I painted the seat belts with

and I'm gonna do a little bit of dry brushing,

a little bit of white.

Come up with a lighter shade.

This should be done in steps.

Going from your darker shade to your lighter shade

just like the dry brushing described earlier.

Okay, on the buckle,

paint where the little hole is

with a little spot of black paint.

Put a little dab of super glue

where you're gonna be attaching it.

Lower it right in there.

Position it carefully with a toothpick.

Now I've just added two belts here.

There's actually several belts, which I'll go on and add

and we'll go ahead and attach the seat

and put the canopy on.

Now looking at my reference photos,

I can see that there's some small labels,

miscellaneous stuff on the sides of the ejection seat

as well as throughout the cockpit.

So I'm gonna find some decals from my decal box.

Now I've picked the decal up on the tip of the brush

and using my reference photos,

that's about where it goes right there.

Most all modern jets have a heads-up display

of some sort or other.

There's a reflective surface under here

that shines the light up into a plate of glass

the pods look at

and to simulate that lens,

I'm gonna punch a disc of silver decal paper out

and apply that.

So what I've got here is a punch and die set,

some silver decal paper.

(banging)

Okay, so I've got my disc of silver decal material here.

I'm gonna go ahead and apply that.

Okay, before I attach the heads-up display,

I'm gonna go ahead and dry brush the shroud a little bit,

add a bit of life to it.

First, I'm gonna put the clear lens on.

Then I'm just gonna put a little bit

of that thinned out white glue right around the edge.

Just a little dab on each side.

Drop it in there.

The reason I'm using white glue

is because it dries clear.

This is what our heads-up display looks like

when it's attached.

We're now ready to attach the canopy.

(upbeat music)

Whenever possible, try and glue parts from the inside

where the glue seam won't show.

In this case, I'm using an artist's inking pen

to pick up some super glue.

And I'm gluing from the inside.

Now I'm gonna glue the cockpit in.

Once again, I'm gonna be gluing

from the inside of the fuselage.

To make things go quicker,

I'm gonna use some super glue accelerator.

A little shot and it's dry.

Go ahead and glue this from several points.

Now because I'm gonna close the canopy on this airplane,

I want to make sure no dust can get into the cockpit

through the inside of the fuselage.

So I'm gonna go around the edges of the cockpit

and seal this joint completely with white glue.

Now prior to gluing the fuselage together,

I'm gonna drill out the gun port here.

I've got a number 70 drill bit in this case and a pen vise.

And clean up the insides.

I'm gonna take advantage of the fact

that there's an opening in the nose

and I'm gonna put some super glue on the inside.

I'll use the Zip Kicker to accelerate the glue.

Flip it over and do the other side.

Come back and glue this in several places

using the super glue and the inking pen.

Now I'm going to reinforce this from the inside

and finish gluing my seam

by putting several drops of glue in

and allowing it to roll down the inside.

It should have flowed down the seam

and glued the seam all the way along the side.

I'll do this for both sides.

Now we're ready to go ahead and fill a seam.

There's a seam running along there

on the side of the fuselage and running back.

I'm gonna fill the seam with super glue.

What I'm doing is I'm gonna build the surface up

till the super glue...

Is just slightly higher than the surrounding plastic.

Now I don't like to use the accelerator

when I'm filling seams.

It tends to make the super glue

harder than the surrounding plastic.

And I'll fill a small portion of the seam at a time

and come back and sand it out.

Super glue gets harder as it dries.

We want to sand it out while it's still soft.

Now you can see I've built the super glue up

higher than the surface of the plastic.

Now we're ready to come and sand that out

and there should be no apparent seam when we're done.

Now we're gonna come and sand that super glue off.

(scraping)

I'm using 320 wet.

Try not to sand too far into the other areas.

Don't want to lose too much detail.

If we lose some detail, we can fix that up.

Now I'm gonna sand with some 400 wet.

(scraping)

Let's use some 600 wet.

Dry the model a little bit.

Now I'm taking a rag that has been soaked

in Brasso metal polish and allowed to dry.

This forms a nice polishing compound.

I'll lightly polish the plastic here.

I'm gonna hold it up to the light

to see whether I've filled my seam or not.

I'm holding this up and looking at it towards the light.

Using the reflection, you can see in here

that this area's not filled.

So I'm gonna come back and fill that area.

Okay, now looking at it towards the light again,

we can see that the seam is filled.

You can see that the area where I've got hot stuff

as a filler, but it's sanded out and polished

and now it won't show.

We have lost some panel lines.

We'll come back now and re-scribe those.

This side has not been filled.

Now I'm gonna re-scribe this line that we lost

around the fuselage here.

To begin, I'm using a curved blade.

Begin by laying it on the line here.

I'll scribe first of all a straight cut right around the top

so I've got a line to follow.

Now I'm going to form a V by cutting

first at one angle...

Then at the other angle.

I'm gonna use the old toothbrush

to help remove some of those burrs.

Now I'm gonna use a scribe tool

to come in and square that cut up,

taking really light passes.

Doing it at an angle first to help deepen that V groove.

And on my final pass,

I'll use a little bit of authority here to square it out.

Once again, grabbing a toothbrush.

Now I'm going to look at it towards the light

to make sure that it looks good.

Now I've lost some of the detail

around these hatches on the side of the fuselage.

I'm gonna use a compass point

to come back and re-scribe those.

Templates are available in different shapes,

but generally I'm gonna go ahead and use a straight edge

to get this one side

and I'll just lightly scribe it with a compass point.

I'm gonna take some 600 grit sandpaper,

sand some of that debris off of there,

grab the toothbrush, clean up the lines

and see where I'm at.

It's gonna take a little more scribing,

but it's just repeating the process

until you're happy with what you've got.

I'm ready to glue together the wings,

but before gluing it together,

I'm gonna cut a little hole here where it won't show

so that I can run some glue on the inside of the wing

to reinforce it.

Cut one towards the back of the wing too.

And I'll just glue the trailing edge.

The leading edge we can get from the inside.

A good point to make here

is thinning trailing edges of wings.

This kit is nice and thin and there's no work to be done.

Some kits, the trailing edge is much too thick for scale.

Okay now that we've got that glued together,

I'm gonna take the super glue, this hole that we made,

I'm just gonna put a couple drops inside the wing.

And I'm gonna let that run around the inside of the wing.

Okay, now I've blocked the wing up with my sanding block

and various thicknesses of sheet plastic

until I've come to something close to the same angle

that's shown in the three-view drawing

in one of my reference books.

I'm gonna go ahead and glue it in place using those blocks.

Now in preparing to glue this wing on,

I don't want to fill the area

between the flap and the fuselage

or the leaning edge slat and the fuselage with glue.

So I'm gonna take a little piece of clay.

Put a little piece of clay there to act as a damn.

Also try not to get too much glue in that area.

Take some super glue.

Make sure it's on the blocks.

Okay, I've still got the wing blocked up

and I'm coming back and filling the line up completely

and slightly overfilling it so we can sand this out

and eliminate our seam.

Okay, my glue's dried.

I'm ready to sand the seam out.

Now because I'm coming into a right angle right here,

I'm gonna fold a piece of sandpaper in half.

And sand right into that seam.

(scraping)

And this area where it becomes flush,

I'll go ahead and sand that

and I'll use my fingers to back it out.

I would block sand it, but it's not flat.

Now, I've sanded the seam out and polished it.

I'll come in and remove the debris

from all the surrounding lines with a toothbrush

to determine what needs to be re-scribed.

So I'm gonna come in here with a straight edge.

And because this is a nice flat surface,

I'll just go straight in with the scribe tool.

And what I just did there, I missed my line.

I used a knife blade and I scratched the surface.

Those are easily burnished out with a fingernail.

Press it back in and start over

and that shouldn't show.

Using light passes.

Now I've also lost some of my rivet detail up here.

I'm gonna grab my pen vise.

Grab a small drill bit.

When using really small drill bits,

it's best to have them

stick out of the pen vise just a little bit.

The further they stick out,

the better your chance of breaking them.

Now I'm gonna come in

and redrill the rivets that I sanded out or filled.

Just a few twists.

I've taken my reference book with the three-view drawing

and I've drawn lines across where the landing gear are

and on the vertical stabilizer, which are at a slight angle.

Now I've taken a piece of sheet plastic

and cut it to that angle.

I'm gonna use this as a template to make sure

that I get my vertical stabilizers lined up properly.

Now I'm gonna position it.

I'm taking my template

and I'm gonna look down the length of the fuselage.

I'm gonna line this up.

Now I'm gonna come in with some super glue

and tack it into place.

Add a couple tacks along the edge.

Then we'll come back and fill this seam.

And I'm gonna check it with my template again.

Okay, it looks right still.

So I'm gonna give it a quick shot of the accelerator.

Now, our stabilizers

are given the same block treatment as the wings

using the three-view drawing,

determining how many blocks to put under it

and we're not gonna fill this seam.

The reason I'm not going to fill the seams on the stabilizer

is that most modern fighters, the entire stabilizer moves.

So there would be a gap there.

(upbeat music)

Okay, what we're gonna do now

is remove the canopy from the tree.

Nice little trick I found for removing canopies

is to use a hot knife.

Take a candle and X-Acto knife, heat your blade up.

And carefully cut through the tree,

leaving a little bit excess

that we'll come back and file off.

Carefully file away the burrs.

The hot knife trick works especially well

when you have no canopy frame surrounding the canopy

like we've got here.

And if you don't use a hot knife,

you take a chance of stress fracturing the glass

and there's nothing you can do about that.

Okay, we've removed the burr with a file,

gotten it kinda close.

Now I'm coming in with some 400 wet

and I'm gonna block sand that down

till it's about flush.

Now a little bit of 600 wet.

Now a little 1200 wet.

Okay.

We've removed all the burrs.

We're ready to start polishing the canopy now.

Notice the difference between your unpolished canopy

and your polished canopy.

We're gonna get the lines underneath.

And an unpolished,

polished one.

Now I'm holding my canopy up to the light here

to see how much distortion I've got.

I've got a nice big scratch here

that looks like it may need some 600 grit to take it out.

I'll also hold a steel ruler up

to see the clarity of the lines.

Generally I'll start out with the lightest grit

to see if that does the trick.

I'm starting out with some 1200 wet

and I'm gonna begin with a circular motion

and sand the whole canopy out.

Now I'm gonna come in with this piece of t-shirt

soaked in Brasso metal polish.

When allow to dry, it forms a real fine powder,

polishing powder.

And just buff away.

Now this is a standard automotive polishing compound,

not very coarse.

It does get the trick done fast though.

Starting to get clear.

Now I'm gonna come back with just the Brasso.

It's a finer polish.

The more you rub, the shinier and smoother it'll get.

A good polished canopy attracts a lot of attention.

Come in finally with a clean t-shirt.

Really buff it nice and hard,

as hard as you can go without cracking the canopy.

It's definitely getting clearer than it was.

I can see that there's some distortion inside

so I'm gonna come back and polish the insides too.

Grabbing a fresh piece of 1200,

I'm gonna pull it over a sharp edge on the table.

This breaks the back on the sandpaper

so you can roll it up without the paper cracking on you.

Roll it as tight as you like.

Sanding the inside of the canopy.

If you can locate any big scratches that the 1200

isn't taking` out, go ahead and go over to 600

and scratch over in here with some 600 wet.

And we'll come back with an automotive

polishing compound again and polish it out.

(squeaking)

We polish our canopies because

the originals do tend to show some distortion

and a good test for this,

if you lay a steel ruler underneath

or even a piece of paper with typing on it,

if you look at one side and roll your head over,

you'll see that it does show distortion as you move

where the polished canopy doesn't show this distortion.

(upbeat music)

Okay, now I'm going to paint

the inside of the canopy frames.

On a larger scale model, this is not so hard to do.

I won't worry about covering it in one coat.

Basically want to work my way up to the line,

the glass frame demarcation line.

Here where I went over the line,

I'm gonna come in with a toothpick

and scrape some of that paint away.

Okay, now we're gonna use decals

to paint the insides of our canopy frame.

I've chosen a color of gray that's close to what I want.

And I'm gonna go ahead and cut the decal film off

'cause I don't want any decal film

on the inside of the canopy.

Then you go through your normal decal process.

The advantage of using decals

is you can get a nice clean, crisp line,

as clean and crisp as you can cut it.

(upbeat music)

Okay, we're ready to attach our canopy.

I'm gonna put the rear portion of the canopy in

to help position the forward portion of the canopy

and glue the forward portion on with super glue.

Go ahead and position it.

Now using a small piece of wire,

I'm gonna get a little, tiny drop of super glue.

I'm gonna put a little tack in one corner.

Tack in the middle.

And a tack in the other corner.

Now, we'll let that set up.

We don't want to use too much super glue at one time

or it's gonna cause the canopy to fog up.

Okay, I'm holding the windscreen in position.

I've got it tacked in three places.

Now I'm gonna come in in between those,

put a couple more little tacks.

And I'm gonna slowly work my way around with small tacks.

Till I've got the entire windscreen

glued down with super glue.

With that in position, we'll go ahead

and glue the rear portion of the canopy on.

We'll go through one last time and blow the cockpit out

and make sure there's no dust in the cockpit.

(blowing)

I'm gonna run a little bead of white glue

along the edge here.

Once again, we're using white glue because it dries clear.

I'll go ahead and position it.

Any excess we'll just wipe off with our finger

and come back and clean the glass up in a minute.

Now, the reason we attach

the windscreen portion with super glue is because

there shouldn't be a gap around the bottom.

This portion back here moves.

It's never gonna get a full seal.

So there will show a gap.

Coming back in on the windscreen,

I'm gonna fully fill that crack with super glue

and then I'm gonna come in and sand that out.

Blend it in with the fuselage.

This is really important at contest.

Judges do look at this kind of a thing.

I'm looking towards the light using the reflection

to see that I have completely filled the gap.

Over on this side where I haven't filled it,

you can see the difference.

Okay, my super glue is dry.

So I'm gonna come in with 600 grit wet

and sand that seam out.

(scraping)

I'm ready for some 1200 grit.

Okay, we've sanded the seam down with 600 and 1200 wet.

Now I'm taking my polishing cloth

with the dried Brasso on it

and I'm gonna come in and polish the canopy out

where I've sanded with the 1200.

And we're ready to mask the canopy and paint.

Okay, I have in front of me

some 3M fine line tape in 16th inch and eighth inch

as well as some drafting tape.

The 3M tape is available at automotive stores.

The drafting tape you can get in an art store.

Go ahead and pull off some of the 16th inch fine line tape

and mask the windscreen.

Go ahead and put it,

tack it down in one corner of the canopy.

Slowly stretch it around.

You can use a toothpick to help you position it.

Burnish the edges with your fingernail as you go

and when we're done with that,

we'll go ahead and mask the other edges of the frame.

The reason we're using the 3M, the fine line tape

is because it's easier to control where you're putting it on

and it'll give you a finer edge

than a drafting tape or a masking tape.

It's not a cloth or paper tape.

Now any areas that are gonna be painted bare metal,

such as the gun port in this case,

we want to mask prior to painting.

So I'm gonna go ahead

and mask this off with some clear tape.

Using my hobby knife...

trim away the excess.

(upbeat music)

Okay, before I start airbrushing,

I have to determine a way to hold the model.

Now, I've taken a piece of wood here and carved up the end

so that it fits nicely in the tail cone.

This way I can hold the model,

spray the whole thing without handling the model.

There's other methods of doing this.

On small-scale jets, you can use a toothbrush

and jam it in the tail pipe.

Prior to airbrushing the model,

I'm gonna wipe the whole model down with a t-shirt

to remove any finger oils and dirt and residue.

I'll go ahead and mix up some paint.

My colors, I'm using the kit instructions as a reference

for the light gray 'cause it looks right.

Probably putting...

1/3 of thinner, 2/3 of paint.

And what I like to do is swirl it around in the cup

and when the paint flows down and becomes transparent,

you got about the right consistency.

Now I'm going to test my spray

on a scrap piece of cardboard here.

(spray gun hissing)

You should always test it first.

I'm gonna lay this cardboard to the side.

And I'll begin by getting some paint flowing out of the gun

and moving to the model.

Now I'm spraying in small circular motions,

slowly filling it in.

One area that can be a problem

is where you have two angles coming together.

If I'm to spray this stabilizer,

the overspray's gonna come up and stick to the sides

of the rudder here and the vertical stabilizer.

The cure for that would be to lower your air pressure

if you've got a pressure regulator.

So now I'm using real low pressure.

And I'm gonna come in and spray along

these cracks and crevices and hard to get to places.

Walk around your model and check all your seams

now that you've got a base coat of paint.

If you see any seams that need to be refilled,

do it now.

Alright, we're ready to paint our second color

of our camouflage.

Using a combination of three sources that I found,

I'm gonna green the color up a little bit.

I've determined that this one top view right here

is as close as I'm gonna get

to the actual Iraqi camouflage scheme.

So I'll be using this photo for reference as I airbrush

and I'll set that back here.

Now I've got my second camouflage color here.

I'm gonna do a test pattern on the scrap piece of cardboard.

I'll begin out here on a wingtip.

Now, I've the first pass I made

isn't quite to where I want to go.

I'm gonna be putting more paint out here

and crisping up this edge.

Make that first pass short

and then I'm gonna come in and fill this in.

I don't want to spray this vertical stabilizer

and shaft dispenser portion here.

So I'm gonna use a Post-it notepad and stick it on there.

In fact, I'm gonna use two.

Slide one underneath the flap here

to protect the side of the fuselage there.

Now I've got that portion masked off.

(spray gun hissing)

Now I'm gonna come in and fill this in.

Now if you've thinned your paint properly,

you should be having no problems.

If you're getting spatter,

you probably have too thick of paint.

If you're getting runs, your paint is probably too thin.

If the surface is coming out like sandpaper,

you probably have your air pressure up too high.

Now I'm gonna paint the vertical stabilizer

and to keep from getting my overspray on the opposite side,

I'll put a mask up on the back.

Notice when I start spraying,

I always start spraying off of the model.

That way if you get some spatter,

it won't get on your model.

Okay, I'm gonna be using Post-it notepads

to mask on all my straight edges

and I'm doing what's called forced panel lines.

Basically just stick your Post-it notepad

along a panel line

and I'm taking my original camouflage color.

I'm gonna lighten it

and I'm gonna make it into a tint.

So I've got 1/4 original camouflage color,

about 3/4 flat, clear flat,

and a couple drops of white.

Stir that up.

(spray gun hissing)

And we want to spray right along

the edge of this Post-it notepad.

Confine it to the area that's the darker camouflage.

I'm using the darker color right now.

Now we sprayed the lighter shade along the trailing edge

or in this case the leading edge of these panel lines.

We're gonna do that to

all of the panel lines on the airplane.

We'll go front to back

and towards the outsides of the airplane.

Because I've made this paint into a tint,

we can go back and forth

till we're happy with the effect that we get.

You want to keep it really subtle.

This effect overdone will make a model look pretty bad.

As well as going side to side along the edge,

throw in a few streaks here and there from front to back.

(spray gun hissing)

Then we're gonna mask some more difficult spots

where it's just impossible to get a Post-it notepad

to wrap around the contoured surface.

So we'll just carefully wrap it around,

following the panel line.

And it's important that you use drafting tape

and not masking tape

when you're masking over the top of a painted surface.

Masking tape is a much higher tack

and sometimes will tend to pull your paint right off.

Same process now.

(spray gun hissing)

Now while you've got that mask in place,

you can come and hit some of the straight lines

with the Post-it notepads.

(spray gun hissing)

See what we've got.

Some of these little access panels up around the nose

that are just too difficult to mask

all the individual sides.

So I'm gonna cut them out of a piece of transparent tape.

Use a brand-new X-Acto knife blade

when you do something like this.

And we'll do the same thing, spraying the front edge.

I'm going to use a toothpick to help me lift the tape up.

So as not to scar the paint.

So using the transparent tape,

cutting out this one panel section,

we are able to highlight just this individual panel

that would have otherwise been almost impossible to mask.

Now along the leading edges of the wings and the stabilizers

all the sharp leading edges on the fuselage.

I'm gonna come in and add this highlight.

As well as some streaks.

Using the fine line tape,

masked around the nose, sprayed the radome the gray.

I've also masked this contoured line here.

Sprayed the anti-glare panel black.

Note also that I've highlighted the anti-glare panel

as well as the radome while I had them masked up.

Same technique used for highlighting and camouflage.

A little bit lighter shade of black.

Mask the individual lines.

Spray towards the back of the plane.

In the case of the radome,

I masked, sprayed towards the front of the plane

with a slightly lighter shade.

The next step is to bring out

the rivets and panel lines with oil paint.

In order to this, we're gonna coat the model

with Future floor wax

to protect the enamel paint underneath.

I'm using Future floor wax straight out of the bottle.

You can thin it if you like,

but believe me it's already pretty thin.

Spray on a thin coat, continue moving.

Continue coating the aircraft.

We're gonna be giving it two or three thin coats.

And on a model this large,

by the time we finish spraying the first coat,

we can come back to our starting point

and start spraying the second coat.

A smaller model, I would allow it to dry a little longer.

(upbeat music)

I've mixed black, white, and raw umber oil paints

in a beer cap here.

I've come up with a complementary color

to the camouflage scheme, in this case a dirty gray

that is not too dark.

You don't want to go too dark on this.

And what we're doing, we're gonna pick out

the panel lines and rivets with oil paint

and you begin just by scrubbing it into the cracks

and lines and rivets.

Don't worry about your slop.

Then we come back with a piece of tissue.

And remove it.

Come back with some Turpenoid and a piece of tissue.

And take a little bit out.

What I'm gonna do now is use a little bit of straight black

and hit some things like ailerons and control surfaces

and get a harder line.

I want a bigger contrast than what I had

on the panel lines and rivets

and you can see the effect of the rivets here.

On the top here, we've got a series of vents

that we're gonna pick out in a straight black.

So I'm doing the same thing I did on my flaps and ailerons

and we'll just put a little bit of black oil paint

in the cracks.

Come back in with the tissue.

Wipe away the excess.

A little bit of Turpenoid to remove the stain from the paint

and there you've got some vents.

And you'll have a little more life

than if you had left them unpainted.

If you're having any trouble keeping the oil in the cracks,

it doesn't want to stay in,

what you can do is come back with a knife blade

and re-scribe those lines.

Same thing's true with the rivets.

If you've got a few rivets that the oil won't stick in,

you can come back with your little drill bit

or you can come back in with a compass point

or a needle or pin

and now those rivets that wouldn't work before

come to life.

Now, judges at contests they'll look at a model

and if you've got a line that's partial,

if there's a little bit of oil here and oil here,

they're gonna mark that against you.

So you want to make sure and make all the lines even.

(upbeat music)

Okay, we've sprayed our model with a gloss coat.

We're ready to put our decals on now.

Now, I've chosen an Iraqi paint scheme.

So I've went out and purchased some aftermarket decals.

Now I'm gonna prep the surface with micro-set

and this cleans the surface of the model.

And position it according to the instructions provided.

Check it with our reference.

Put a little bit of Micro-Sol on top of that

to soften the decal.

It'll make it conform to the surface better.

Careful positioning is very important.

The decals should be aligned properly.

Judges will look for that.

Okay, now I'm going to apply a small decal

and I'll exclusively use a paintbrush to handle this.

Now going back to the flag,

I've noticed that it did not suck down into the rivets there

so I'm gonna put a little more Micro-Sol over those rivets.

I'm gonna take a straight pin.

You can use a needle or a compass point.

Carefully poke holes in the decal

to let some of the air out.

Now, decals that are applied to both the left

and right-hand sides of the aircraft

should line up properly.

If you've got a model where they're not supposed to line up,

you should bring photographic evidence of this

to the contest with you.

Judges do check to see that decals line up properly.

(upbeat music)

Okay, now I'm gonna come in and paint the front gear well

to demonstrate some washes.

And I'm taking a brush dampened with paint thinner,

not excessively wet,

and lightly wetting the surface inside there.

I'm gonna take another brush,

get some Turpenoid, mix with my oils

to create a wash and I've got a really dirty wash in there.

You can choose your color.

You may want to do a black wash or a dirty wash.

And we're gonna come in and just touch it to some corners

and let it spread out.

Okay, now the wheel wells on this plane

remain a light gray.

I'm gonna come in with the original gray color

lightened with some white and do some dry brushing.

Okay, we've got our wash and our dry brushing.

Now we can come in and pick some details out

using some silver paint and I'm gonna come in

and pick out some of these hose fittings.

Just do a little detail painting.

Reference material really comes in handy

in a case like this if you've got it,

otherwise it's up to the imagination.

Okay, now our decals have dried.

I'm gonna come in with some Future floor wax

after I dust this area

and spray over the top of the decal

where I'm gonna be putting some oil paint in those rivets.

(spray gun hissing)

Just a little bit.

I'm gonna go ahead and put the oil paint

right in and around these rivets.

And do the same thing we did before with our oil paint.

I'll come in and wipe off the excess.

Now for my final coat, I'm gonna mix some clear flat.

And a little bit of clear gloss.

I don't want a totally flat finish.

Go ahead and spray the model up.

Okay, I'm gonna spray the gun panel

as well as the engine parts, tail cone parts.

I've got a metalizing type paint here.

(spray gun hissing)

This metalizer paint now doesn't take very long to dry.

Once it's dry, give it a few minutes to dry,

we can come in with a t-shirt and I'm gonna buff it out.

And it'll get very shiny.

It doesn't take very much.

I'm just gonna lightly buff this

'cause I don't want it too shiny.

Now I'm gonna do the same thing with this tail cone piece.

I'm gonna buff it out very lightly.

Okay, we're ready to do some weathering.

I'm gonna use some oil paint.

I've already got the gray color mix

that we put in our panel lines.

I'm getting a little bit more raw umber.

Brown.

What I'm gonna do is come along

and take some of that gray and a little of that brown...

And here and there on the model,

I'll place just a small dab behind a rivet or something

and streak it back with my finger.

So we're gonna scatter this weathering around.

I'm gonna put small dabs of paint here and there.

Streak it back with my finger.

We can use the same oil effect,

thinned out with Turpenoid

to get a little bit different effect,

more of a wet streaked look.

We want to keep all our weathering settle though.

I'm just gonna bounce around here and there,

put small streaks.

Okay, now to simulate exhaust and gun burns,

I'm coming in with some black pastel

that I've ground off with an X-Acto.

And I'm going to stipple it onto the surface here.

Blow the excess off.

Come back to these vents and add a little bit of streaks.

I'm gonna keep this subtle

as with all your other weathering.

Now, with pastels I don't recommend using a clear coat.

This has a tendency to cause them to go transparent.

Once you've got them on there,

basically you can't handle them.

So be careful when handling your model.

Underwing stores, missiles, fuel tanks

should be treated the same as a separate aircraft model.

All the seams should be filled.

The lines should be re-scribed.

If the fins are too thick,

they should be thinned down or replaced.

Now when painting them,

I've gone ahead sprayed them with white,

given them a coat of Future floor wax

and treated the panel lines with oil paint.

And I've also come in, added decal stripes,

just some decal that I cut out of a sheet.

Now, the weapons pylons I've given the same treatment

as the rest of the model.

I've given them a wash, some dry brushing,

a little bit of forced panel lines when I airbrushed them,

also come and taken some 48 scale decals from a MiG kit

and added some small stencil.

Well that's it.

If you like, you can enter your jet

in local or national hobby contests.

Your local hobby shop will fill you in

on the contest information.

Remember though, we do this mostly for fun.

Thanks for watching Video Workbench.

I'm Chris Wilson and we'll see you next time.

(upbeat music)

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LADA PRIORA from Samara with LOUD SOUND music CARAUDIO - Duration: 17:18.

Imagine yourself sitting in a car with tinting, a traffic officer comes up and says, 'Wait, I' gonna grab my meter and write you a ticket'

You're, like, 'Okay, go'. And while the officer is away - Tigran, you're up.

Open the window. Shazam! Voila! No tinting.

Do it back on, will ya?

And to tint it, just open the window. Alakazam! Here, it's back!

This is on fire! Here comes the future. Here it is!

Hi, everyone. We're having a regular review today

because this is yet another Lada Priora.

We've lost track of how many of them we've done. I just asked guys which one was this. Sergey said he didn't know

It's been a bunch of these in here lately. Prioras have been frequent guests recently.

This one came all the way from Samara (~1000 km or ~620 mi). There are two from Samara. A black one, too

Are we gonna shoot it today?

[T]: Yep.

Okay, but first comes this -- is it grey? Or brown?

[T]: Coriander.

Okay, coriander.

A coriander Lada Priora with about 500K rub worth of music.

Actually, it was a bit over half a million. We just rounded it off to half a million so that you don't get too shocked.

So the audio installed by Tigran costs as much as the car itself does.

The car is originally from Samara but the owner currently lives in Stavropol.

So we put this car up to Stavropol's finest traditions mixed with Rostov's finest.

So we have three bands, all of them extremely loud, two 15" subwoofers.

Two AGM batteries in the trunk and one under the hood. Powerful monoblock, powerful amps for the front.

We're gonna show-and-tell it all to you now,

And, of course, Tigran's poor neighbors who havnn't heard loud music in a while have the pleasure,

And so will you. We'll definitely try it. Turned out really loud.

Both the sub set and the front. The front is a real killer.

Tigran would squirm, me, too. The front turned out really loud.

We'll start from under the hood. You've already opened it. Great!

We've picked up a trick from Vik Mots. Now I will be in the frame, too

because on the footage where you speak about hardware, there should be a person who speaks about it.

The engine, again, is one 16 Volt engine. See? Here it says 16, and here is the V for Volts.

The alternator is one WPS, for 253 A.

The cable laid leading from the alternator is doubled up. You keep asking why double. The more, the better, guys.

For the battery we have one Exide EM100

A very nice one, with good output, good quality, very compact and rather affordable.

Kicx, again! Tigran?! And there's Ural down there. Lol

[T]: Are you taking Kicx off?

No. Why?

[T]: Kicx vs. Ural.

[T]: I made them friends.

Look, it's Ural.

[T]: They're pretty. They are gold.

And we've also installed... A canister for the braking fluid (kidding).

For the power cable we have ПВ-3, 50 sq leading from the alternator to the power cell.

And from here on, the layings are 70 sq. each.

We have the total of two + and two - leading to the rear.

The covers. Did you craft them, Tigran?

[T]: My apprentice Kirill made them.

Your apprentice Kirill made them? You know, Kirill isn't always a good name for an installer.

So Tigran crafted these podiums together with his apprentice. Which makes you what? A teacher now?

[T]: More like a teecha.

[Comedy Club sketch cut in]: - Thank you, teecha! - You welllcome!

Okay. We have four pairs of 18sound's 410s.

These are one of the loudest mids. Maybe the loudest, I'm not sure.

We also have Eminence, American speakers. Beta-8A was their name, I think. I keep forgetting it.

Very powerful mid-bass speakers.

And two T-35 tweeters. Which is probably the weakest link in this door.

So here's the door we got. Pretty impressive.

I can't say it's too heavy. Let's say it's reasonably heave. The door closes okay.

Then begins - or maybe even continues - the luxury part.

For the HU we have a Pioneer 99.

Here's our hi-end island here.

For stage speakers there's a stage recorder, right?

People often mock me 'cuz I sometimes call an HU a recorder. They're, like, 'Recorder is for cassettes, no?'

I'm sed to that term. I come from the generation that listened to cassettes. I even remember reel tapes.

Half of the subscribers will go nuts after this.

If you don't know what a reel tape is write 'I don't know what a reel tape is'

Again, we have two voltmeters. One shows the front voltage, the other one's for the rear one.

This is pretty much it about the interior. Total factory look, huh?

But every joke has a kernel of truth in it. The door handles are stock which is great.

We didn't have to go with those buttons and thrusts.

None of those. So we managed to keep the stock placement of the door handle and the window lift button.

So we could say, part of the stock survived

[T]: Even the glovebox opens.

No way!

Like hell it does. I tried and I couldn't.

[T]: Here, look.

That little? It's just as good as none.

[T]: Why? It's enough to put in your papers.

Nay, it doesn't.

Let's check out what we have in the back here. In the back, we have a bass reflex directly to the outside.

Look!

What's in there?

Here, here, here. What's that? Right there inside? What is that?

Right there. See

[Wilhelm scream]

Scared the hell out of you, huh?

What, did you expect this, huh/

Audio Extreme here. You're witnessing an epic rebirth of legendary subwoofers.

These were the subs - their 12" version - were installed in the '13. They brought the '13 its popularity.

Or was it the '13 that made the subs popular?

This part, unfortunately, I can't show you now but I will put up some footage I had shot in advance.

Under the raised floor, there are two power cells Exide EK950,

Everything is connected via a copper bus. Fuses here. Somewhat a DIY distributor.

The trunk houses the feed only. The amps are here behind the rear seatbacks.

And don't you tell our videosdon't up in their quality! Tigran is a grand light master.

See? He got whole two lights! Two iPhone torches simultaneously!

You can see. You can see - that's good enough. It's our motto.

OGO 1500. An extremely powerful 2-channel amp from the Deaf Bonce series.

This one evolved from a OGO 2000.D - a wideband serving monoblock.

Here, we have two channels. They're a bit weaker but all in all, it's a crapload of power.

It just tears, pulls out the maximum and a bit more from the 410s,

Both its channels serve -- one channel per door. One channel per four 410s.

Machete M154 feeds Eminence Betas.

And for tweeters, we have Machete M84.

And an Audio Extreme 5500 is mounted on a specially crafted false pannel in the rear.

So what, we only have to turn it on, right? Oh,a nd for the interested, let me jot through the settings

If you're not and you want some kickass music, wait just a teeny bit.

Before we get to the HU, let's see how badass Samara - or should I say Stavropol?

Badass Stavropol guys fight the tinting fines. See? It's completely untinted.

Whoop! And here it's instantly tinted. I want that, too, Tigran!

Make it back!

Look! Shazam! It's clear. This is pure magic!

Imagine yourself sitting in a car with tinting, a traffic officer comes up and says, 'Wait, I' gonna grab my meter and write you a ticket'

You're, like, 'Okay, go'. And while the officer is away - Tigran, you're up.

Open the window. Shazam! Voila! No tinting.

Do it back on, will ya?

And to tint it, just open the window. Alakazam! Here, it's back!

This is on fire! Here comes the future. Here it is! Only 30K rub.

We have a Priora with a brand new design. I really like it. Why are you laughing? I'm serious. I love it.

Eye burning. Bright, white, nice.

And Pioneer 99 here.

The voltage...

And there's your music.

Okay, we'll go therough the settings now.

The sub is clipped at 63 Hz on the top.

25 Hz on the bottom.

These are the mid-bass speakers. They play the range between 125 Hz and 315 Hz.

The band is very narrow but it allowed us to pull out some really nice punch out of them.

The 410s are starting at 400 Hz but I did it for the sake of extra safety. You can clip 'em lower.

But or target was max volume so that your ears go bananas.

And on the top, their limit is 6.3 KHz. It's not like they play well above that anyway.

Tweeters are clipped at 8 KHz.

Nothing extraordinary. The levels are adjested a little.

Equalizer is set at flat, and the initial time delay preset works okay for us

But in case you're setting time delays, I'd recommend you hold this scroller and regulate the channels.

That's how I do it.

It's just before setting a delay you need to pick it here.

And if here, you pick the position as left or right. for some reason - still clueless why - the HU sets it at different levels.

And you'll havesomething like this. The left channel will be lower than the right one.

Or vice versa. Can't recall exactly. I find it inconvenient. So I set'em at the same level

And then I finish up the delays.

Okay, so we've been over the HU, we've shown you the speakers, we've shown you the amps.

The subs, the voltmeters. The Priora, too. All that's left is some music on.

This song is for Alexey 'Lyosha' J.

He has been begging us to say his name in a review.

He raps about us, too. He's a real deal guy. So why not drop his name?

Here's a good track. Why not give publicity to a good track? And other his tracks are crap, right?

[T]: Of course, they're crap. He never wrote one for me.

Hey, man, make a track about Tigran. The guy's upset you don't have a track about him.

Wait, he's gonna say you are all thumbs.

Okay, Lyosha, record a track about Tigran, and then we'll turn on yours.

Okay, let's consider it a downpayment. We turn your track on right now,

[T]: And you record a new one.

Okay. Lyosha J - A Loud Lada Cruising Down the Roads. Just on the spot with this car, right?

Okay, we'll see now how loud his Lada is there.

And some Coca-Cola for dessert.

You often ask about the apps I use. I mainly use this LazyTune. It's offline. Doesn't stream online.

Here's HD Player. Offline, too. I used to use it a lot. Now I barely ever do.

If I need the music from Vk, I just use official Vk app.

So we got a very loud and pretty stable project. We turned it on until the neighbors started complaining.

If here, in this yard, a car stays on until the neighbors come complaining, it means the car's stable.

The weakest link here is tweeters and probably the alternator. Needs to be brushed up so that it charges up under idle rotation.

Kick up the accelerator a tad, like, 100-200 rpm more, and te charging goes perfectly.

But under idle rotation, it barely charges up.

It's not good but if the owner is reasonable enough to kick up the acceleator during stronger music output,

Or he needs have the sheave worked on. We didn't have the time, the guy had to go.

The system turned out very loud and hi-end. And, gotta say, VERY loud.

Four pairs of 410s is no joke.

For an inexperienced listener, it may hurt a lot.

The mid-rage is /that/ loud.

Tweeters actually manage to keep up but they're probably the weakest link in the sys.

I could turn 'em up but the car is not local so I'd rather they experiment with tweeters on their own.

If something happens, it's not difficult - and not expensive - to replace these tweeters' drivers.

So they can only experiment to get the nice volume which needs to be even higher to keep up with the 410s.

But this way it's not bad, too.

And the reborn Audio Extreme. It was a pleasure to see them again, for sure.

I've killed my share of these 15"s in my Ford.

I participated in Alphard's crash tests when they first started shipping those.

These were Alphard's very first subs. I'd burn them, and they'd give me those with new coils.

So it was a lot of testing.

And the tinting was a great surprise for me. Really cool. It's a must-have in our days.

I mean, ou can drive around tinted or not - up to you.

I should also acknowledge the nice level of bass which turned ot despite the fact that --

Let alone this is a sedan. Behind the rear seatback, there's a false panel which basically cuts out the trunk from the inside.

In installs of this kind decent bass is usually very difficult to achieve. But here, we did manage to.

Perfect for club music. At about 42-45 Hz it's the best. Plays greatly. An amazing bass.

Especially for a sedan.

If you have any questions regarding this Prora, leave them in the comments section.

If you want to go with 'Should've bought a better car', just switch channels. Right away.

You know what? I know just the erfect channel for you. The one where kids unpack Kinder Surprise eggs.

[T]: That channel has more subscribers than ours.

So keep your 'Should've given it to me' or 'Could've bought another Priora's to yourselves, okay?

Btw, when we load a foreign car, you say 'Could've bought a Priora with that money'

We load a Priora, and you say, 'Could've bought a foreign car with that money'.

Everyone knows how to make it better. We know how to make it louder.

That's all. This was LOUD SOUND, guys. Buy, everyone.

[T]: And the Instagram?

Live LOUD.

What?

[T]: Mention my Instagram, man.

Promote your Instagram yourself.

[T]: Guys, subscribe to my Instagram. I need it to have more followers than Alex's.

Never happening.

No, man. That is never happening.

Where is your Instagram written, Tigran? Show it.

There it is. On the Priora. On the door. See?

There. On the door and the fender.

[T]: Oh, yeah. Now I see it. Right.

That's it. Subscribe to Tigran's Instagram.

Man, you owe me money for the promotion.

For more infomation >> LADA PRIORA from Samara with LOUD SOUND music CARAUDIO - Duration: 17:18.

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6 Things You Should Never Order From A Chinese Restaurant - Duration: 4:52.

Not all Chinese restaurants are created equal.

In some restaurants, the food on your plate may be indistinguishable from what you'd

find in Beijing, but more likely, the food you awkwardly stab at with chopsticks may

as well be fast food, and have all the health benefits to match.

So next time you decide to just order out, remember these things you should never order

from a Chinese restaurant.

(giggling)

General Tso's chicken

Named after a 19th-century military man who was long dead when this dish was invented,

General Tso's Chicken started out life in the Hunanese style, and it wasn't sweet.

When the dish appeared on the menu at a restaurant in New York, the chef added sweetness to make

the dish more appealing to Americans.

It's not like General Tso's Chicken was a diet option to begin with, since it's

battered, fried meat covered in a sticky-sweet concoction made of sugar and soy sauce.

That means salt, and lots of it.

Eat a standard portion of General Tso's, and you've put away over 1500 calories, and

more salt than you should eat in a whole day.

Unless you're a 19th-century fighting soldier, don't eat it.

And if you are, welcome to the 21st century.

Sorry about the mess.

"Isn't that wonderful?"

"Yeah!"

Fried rice

White rice has the lowest nutritional value of any rice option available, so when you

throw it in a pan of oil, things just go downhill.

The oily, starchy, undeniably delicious results are an unnecessary calorie addition to your

meal.

And when you've just eaten 1500 calories of General Tso's favorite, the last thing you

need is several hundred more on the side.

Calorie counts vary depending on the oil used, but start at around 200 calories for just

a cup-sized portion, which isn't much.

And if the chef isn't deliberately aiming for health consciousness when he rustles up

your order, the calorie count, and your doctor's eyebrows, could easily get much higher.

Crab rangoon

Whether you call them "cream cheese wontons," or "crab puffs", crab rangoon is basically

crab and cream cheese, stuffed into a dough wrapper, and like most other things on this

list, are deep fried.

Truth be told, it doesn't even matter what's in the dough once it's deep fried, because

that's the culinary equivalent of a mic drop — and not in a good way either.

Crab meat, imitation or not, can make for a healthy meal, but cream cheese has never

been considered the poster child of anything but indulgence...and it's definitely not Chinese.

This unholy marriage is a Chinese-American invention that's laden with calories and fat.

Instead, go for the spring rolls.

If you're going to overindulge, you might as well do it with something that's actually

Chinese.

They'll still kill you, but at least it'll be an authentic death.

Orange beef

The beefier cousin of General Tso's chicken, orange beef is similarly bad for you, and

it's not hard to understand why.

Most nutritional data assumes that a takeout container has two servings, but it's not uncommon

for people to order a container just for themselves, so all those numbers should probably be doubled.

Orange beef is somewhere in the neighborhood of a frightening 1200 calories, 50 grams of

fat, and 1900 milligrams of sodium.

If you can hold yourself to just half the container, and absolutely nothing else, you're

probably doing all right.

However, if you're a normal human being who simply can't resist the siren song of that

free egg roll, you might avoid going over your recommended calorie limit for the whole

day… but probably not.

And don't think that trading out chicken for beef will help.

The secret is in the sauce, and that sauce will kill you.

Barbecue spare ribs

Combine delicious, tender, roasted pork with a mouthwatering glaze of salty sweet barbecue

sauce, and you have a dish fit for your inner Neanderthal.

Unfortunately, just because something sounds good to your personal Flintstone doesn't mean

it's good for you.

The only positive thing that can be said about spare ribs, other than the taste, is that

they're a good source of protein.

However, that protein comes from pork, which rarely goes anywhere without a whole bunch

of fat, and you'll find around 950 calories in an 8-ounce serving, as well as 1,200 milligrams

of sodium, which is dangerously close to your daily recommended amount of 1,500 milligrams.

And if that weren't enough, here's one last nail in the coffin of your deadly dinner.

Lo mein

Noodles would never lie to you, right?

Lo mein is a popular takeout dish that contains noodles, vegetables, meat, and a soy-based

sauce.

In the traditional Cantonese style, lo mein is a solid option, but order it in an American

restaurant and you'll get something completely different.

A standard serving of lo mein with your choice of meat can have as many as 1,100 calories,

most of which come from the carb-heavy noodles and fat.

You'll just have to accept that obesity and heart disease are also a signature element

of lo mein… or just eat something else.

"Woohoo!

Look at that blubber fly!"

Thanks for watching!

Click the Mashed icon to subscribe to our YouTube channel.

Plus check out all this cool stuff we know you'll love, too!

For more infomation >> 6 Things You Should Never Order From A Chinese Restaurant - Duration: 4:52.

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Spotlights 26: Defense of Darkminions - Starcraft II Highlight - Duration: 2:50.

Darkminions' opponent goes for an early pool.

The opponent hides a drone and proxies a Spine Crawler.

Darkminions responds with a Spine Crawler of his own.

His opponent morphs Banelings out of sight.

To minimize drone kills, Darkminions "mineral walks" his drones through his Queen.

His opponent goes full all-in on the attacks.

Darkminions loads up 2 Banelings in a Drop Overlord

and positions it above a choke he made by his ramp.

He drops Banelings on the attacking force.

Unfortunately, a few slip through.

Darkminions splits his heart out only losing 1 drone.

He Holds Position by the choke and flanks with his Banelings.

For more infomation >> Spotlights 26: Defense of Darkminions - Starcraft II Highlight - Duration: 2:50.

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Pillons à l'indienne وجبه هنديه رائعه في المذاق والتقديم - Duration: 4:34.

For more infomation >> Pillons à l'indienne وجبه هنديه رائعه في المذاق والتقديم - Duration: 4:34.

-------------------------------------------

Others VS Me Gaming - Duration: 1:59.

After The Last Two Episodes

I Was Thinking If I Should Make This A Series Or Not

Then I Thought, Why Not Let You Guys Choose

So Click Here And

Vote If I Should Make This A Series Or Not

And Yeah,

Lets Get Into Video

*Cringy Voice*

Yea :3

BAH,

BAH, BO BA

BAH, BO BA, BAAH

BO BE-

*EPIC LASERS*

*Bones Reject Heart*

*Flying Bone VS Heart With Gravity*

*Jumping Heart VS Bones With Holes Between Them*

*Heart Getting Rekt*

STOP!

Hold On, Let Me Just

Hold On, Let Me Just Change The Files And-

OH, There You Go

Now You Can Go

BWAH BWAH BWAH

Oh Yeah, That My Jam!!!

*Speed Building House In Terraria*

*Some Guy On Drugs*

YES, I Know I'm Late

I CAN'T BELIEVE IT

I CAUGHT A SNORLAX!

OMGOODNESS

I CAN'T CATCH THIS DIGLET! (So Sad)

ARHHHH

TECHNOLOGY

Heh (Kill Meh)

TECHNOLOGY SPEEED!!!

All Around Thee

Unfamiliar Faces

*Inhale*

Worn Out Places

Worn Out FaaceeeEEeEees

Riding Early For Thee

BOOOOOM

*Repeat*

Oh Wait,

Oh Wait, We Already

Oh Wait, We Already Used This Joke... :(

*Outro Song Thing*

Fun Fact: I Had A Shirt At The Start Because

I'm Changing My Animating Style

For more infomation >> Others VS Me Gaming - Duration: 1:59.

-------------------------------------------

Hit Me Baby One More Time - Britney Spears (Cover) ‎ft. Garrett Garcia - Bak Ne Söylicem! - Duration: 3:12.

For more infomation >> Hit Me Baby One More Time - Britney Spears (Cover) ‎ft. Garrett Garcia - Bak Ne Söylicem! - Duration: 3:12.

-------------------------------------------

★ How to PUNISH THE CHILD. Collection of rules of punishment for bad behavior of the child. - Duration: 5:51.

For more infomation >> ★ How to PUNISH THE CHILD. Collection of rules of punishment for bad behavior of the child. - Duration: 5:51.

-------------------------------------------

Diffusion en direct de La proute d'or - Duration: 42:16.

For more infomation >> Diffusion en direct de La proute d'or - Duration: 42:16.