Hi, this is Piston Kirk!
Today we will see how to change the oil and the oil filter
on a Boxster 986.
Before wondering "how to do it",
we must ask ourselves: "how often do we do it?"
Porsche recommends changing the oil every 20,000 km
or every two years.
But that's only for everyday use.
If you like to go on circuit at the weekend,
you will have to change the oil a little more often
because the oil is subject to higher constraints
and it will deteriorate faster
The best is to change after each circuit session.
And you would be wrong not to do it
because, as we will see, it is not very complicated.
Step 1 :
The preparation.
Changing the oil is not very difficult, but you have to be well equipped.
As it is a dirty intervention,
Rubber gloves and paper towels will be needed.
It's also better to have old newspapers and cardboard
to help you keep your garage clean.
Here are the tools needed:
a jack,
a 8 mm Allen key for the crankcase plug,
the specific tool to unscrew the oil filter.
A funnel to put the new oil
and a oil catch pan for used oil.
In theory, we will drain only 8.25 liters
therefore, a 10-liter oil catch pan is enough.
But as the floor of my garage is sloping,
I preferred to take a 15 liters model to be sure that the oil don't overflow.
You also have to buy some spare parts:
a new 18 x 24 x 1.5 mm seal for the crankcase cap,
a new oil filter that comes with its seal,
and two cans of 5 liters of oil.
Speaking of oil,
as my wife didn't find any synthetic 10W40
she decided to bring me a "much better" oil
organic "bio" oil.
Well yes, for her the "bio" oil is necessarily better than the "synthetic" one.
Joking aside,
choosing the oil is not easy.
The manufacturer recommends the 5W40 oil,
but the "Service Manual" of Bentley Publishing
suggests other oils depending on the ambient temperatures,
like the 10W40,
15W40
15W50
10W30
or also the 5W30.
To complicate the situation a little more,
Jérôme Marruecos, a specialist in rebuilding Porsche engines,
advised me to use the 10W60 instead
because it is more viscous and more resistant to shear,
which, according to him, compensates for the lack of lubrication when the engine is very hot,
or low oil pressure when the car is at low speed.
For optimal protection of the engine,
he recommends to his most demanding customers
to change the oil every 10 000 km or every year,
It's twice as often as the manufacturer's recommendations.
If you want to know more about this mechanic,
the link to his facebook page is in the description of this video.
With all these contradictory recommendations,
it's hard to make a choice.
Personally, I will have taken the 10W40
because in the "Service Manual" of Bentley Publishing
it is the only one recommended for temperatures above and below 10 ° C,
it is therefore the most versatile oil compared to the use I have of my car.
But this time, I will follow the advice of Jérôme Marruecos
and take the 10W60.
Now that we have all the elements, let's start the oil changing.
2nd step :
lift the car
On most cars, it is very easy to slip under
to unscrew the oil crankcase cap.
But the Boxster is so low
that we will have to lift it with a jack to pass underneath.
The jack's point of support is here.
Position it underneath,
then lift the car high enough
to have room for you to slide underneath from behind.
Once the height is good,
do not forget to secure with a jack stands or a wheel
in case the piston of the jack break.
As the floor of my garage is sloping,
I will use ramps instead.
Once the car is on,
I put a level on the doorstep,
and I realize that the back is too high.
I go down a little so that it is perfectly horizontal.
It is important that it is horizontal
so that the crankcase will empty completely when I remove the cap.
Now that access is clear
we can slip under the car
to look at the two pieces we are going to disassemble.
Here is the crankcase cap
and there the oil filter.
Now we can start the emptying.
Step 3:
remove the old oil
Pass a oil catch pan under the crankcase cap
but, before unscrewing it,
make sure the engine is cold.
If you have just used your car,
it is better to wait 1 to 2 hours,
because if you take hot oil on your hands
and you make a detour to the hospital,
this may considerably lengthen the duration of the operation.
now put on your rubber gloves
and with an 8 mm allen key
loosen the cap by turning counterclockwise.
You may have to force a little,
but the hardest thing is to unscrew the cap
without dropping it in the basin of oil.
Step 4:
Change the oil filter
Theoretically, you don't have to change the filter
at each oil change.
Porsche recommends changing it every 40,000 km
that is to say once every two oil changes.
But as it costs between 15 and 30 euros,
do not hesitate to change it
especially because we will have to inspect the old filter
for a reason that we will discuss later.
But for now, let's just remove it.
Once the oil flow is almost finished,
shift the oil catch pan a little to put it under the oil filter too
because the oil it contains will dribble when we will unscrewed it.
There is a specific tool for unscrewing the oil filter.
This is a 74 mm flute cap wrench
whose shape is perfectly adapted to this operation.
But as I have standard tools,
I thought I could do it without buyind this specific tool.
After all, others have already done it,
So why not me ?
Let's try this tool that exerts lateral pressure when spinning.
It seemed to work at first,
but it was a bitter failure.
So I used a second tool.
I trusted my chances of success
because I saw other mechanics using it
in DIY tutorials dedicated to the oil changing fo the Boxster 986.
Unfortunately, my naive optimism did not last.
I faced two problems:
First of all, I don't have the space to turn it.
It must be twisted slightly to have enough deflection.
Then, when I finally managed to turn it,
I realized he was skating.
This filter seemed impossible to loosen.
Normally, this filter should be tightened to 25 Nm pressure.
Unfortunately, the person who pressed this filter before me
didn't use a torque wrench and squeezed too hard.
Then, I didn't know how to unscrew this blocked oil filter.
I went to search my toolbox to find a solution
and I made one last attempt
with pliers for pip
normaly used for plumbing
To unscrew it
I had to squeeze with the forceps so hard
that I almost broke the plastic of the filter.
Luckily, it worked,
but I learned the lesson,
for the next time,
in anticipation of this kind of problem,
I bought for 30 euros
a complete kit of cap oil filter socket adapted to all filter sizes.
Now we will let the oil flow.
If your car was on a jack,
get the car down to make it horizontal
and empties completely the crankcase.
As it takes at least 20 minutes for the oil to stop flowing,
we will enjoy it to drink a beer.
But as it is not safe to take alcohol when doing mechanics
we will drink moderately
and just drink a small glass.
Step 5:
Replace seals
As the oil continues to flow,
we will replace the joints,
For the oil crankcase cap, a 18 x 24 mm seal is required.
We can find a complete box of joints like this one
for less than 20 euros.
It is also necessary to change the seal of the oil filter.
Start by cleaning the cap,
then, once it's clean,
remove the old seal with a small flat screwdriver.
Normally, a new seal is provided with the new filter.
To put it back, no need for tools,
you can easily insert it with your hand,
pushing it down to its dedicated location
and not on the thread.
Now that the two seals are replaced and the oil has finished flowing,
we will lift the car again with the jack
and remove the oil catch pan.
As we can see she is very black.
To compare, here are two samples.
Left: the oil just removed.
Right: the oil that will be put back into the engine.
Step 6:
Put back new oil
Before pour the new oil,
it is necessary to screw the crankcase cap.
I took a basic tool and I tightened without measuring the pressure,
but if you want to do things well,
you have to use a torque wrench
and tighten with a pressure of 50 Nm.
You have to put the filter back in two steps:
first, push the filter in
then screw the plastic cup.
Theoretically, you have to use a torque wrench
and tighten to 25 Nm pressure.
But since I did not have the right tool,
I screwed it by hand
At least, like that, I'm sure I won't screw too hard.
Screwing it by hand worked well. When I start the engine I didn't have any oil leak.
Once everything is screwed,
wipe off all traces of oil,
This is important for the test phase,
to make sure there is no leak.
Before putting oil in the engine, the car must be horizontal,
you have to remove the jack.
Now open the trunk to access the oil cap.
Unscrew it,
insert a funnel,
then empty the entire first 5 liter can.
On the tutorials I watched,
it is suggested to put 8.25 L when changing the filter.
However, in the Bentley's Service Manual,
it is suggest to put 8.75 L
it's a half liter more.
Since it's easier to add oil than to remove it,
I will keep the lowest quantity: 8.25 Liters
We have already poured 5 liters,
we must therefore add 3.25 L
I will have to remove 1.25 L of the second can
and pour the rest into the engine.
I discreetly "borrowed" my wife's kitchen doser,
praying she will never see this video.
With the doser I first remove 1 liter of oil
then I pour into the first can that we emptied earlier.
Next, I remove another 0.75 liter of oil
that I pour back into the other can.
Now, we just have to pour the remaining 3.25 L into the engine.
Before removing the funnel,
take a paper towel to prevent the oil from falling into the trunk.
Close the cap,
then start the engine for a minute
to reboot the oil circuit and fill the oil filter.
Then let the engine rest for 10 minutes,
after this 10 minutes check the level.
Normally your oil level must be between these two notches.
There should not be too much or too little
because in both cases, it will damages the engine.
If oil is missing, add in,
otherwise, remove the excess by the bottom cap.
Once the level is good,
you can screw the oil cap.
To control the oil level,
there is also an electronic gauge
which is displayed on the dashboard when the ignition is switched on without starting the engine.
This process can take a few tens of minutes.
When it ended, I realized that I could still add some oil.
So I added a quarter of a liter more,
therefore, instead of putting 8.25 L, I put 8.5 L
there is quarter of a liter more between what I read in the tutorials
and what I put in my engine
This diffrence is perhaps because I let the oil flow for almost 2 hours.
Normaly, you do not wait so long.
Finally,
I added a quarter of a liter more than what was announced in the tutorials
and a quarter of a liter less than what was recommended
in the Service Manual of Bentley Editions.
It is better to be careful,
and start with less to add later.
That's it, it's over for the oil change,
but we still have one last thing to do.
Step 7:
Inspect the old filter
Do you remember that I told you to keep the old filter?
Now we will inspect it closely.
With a cutter cut it in the direction of the length,
then unstuck it
and unfold it.
Look closely for metal particles.
If there is any, there is a problem.
This can possibly be the IMS ball bearing which is deteriorating.
In this case, it must be changed urgently,
because when it breaks,
this can destroy your engine.
We can also detect the presence of metal particles
by passing a magnet in the used oil.
If iron filings clump together,
it is necessary to go to your car mechanic
to find the exact origin of the problem.
Since there was nothing abnormal in the oil of my engine,
so I can throw the filter
and ride.
The question that remains is to know what to do with the old oil.
As it is very polluting,
you can't pour it into the whole thing in the sewer
or put the cans in a garbage bag.
Depending on the country, you need:
either return them to the dump to pour them into a special container.
either bring them back to the store that sold you the new oil
because very often, they are required to take back used oils.
Step 8:
Testing and retightening
After a 20 minute ride,
go under the car to take a look.
If you had cleaned the crankcase well and there are still drops of oil
on the cap or on the filter,
there is a leak
they must be tightened.
In the end, even if the operation is accessible to beginners,
you must keep in mind that this procedure doesn't tolerate approximation.
Don't put too much nor too little oil otherwise the mechanics will suffer.
If you are not sure of yourself,
do not hesitate to regularly check the oil level the first days
in order to be sure that there are no leaks.
In conclusion: it's a bit long, it's dirty but it's not very difficult
and it will save you from ruining yourself at the Porsche dealer
after each circuit output.
See you next time!
No comments:
Post a Comment