Hello everyone, my little turtles.
Here we are with the second part of the tutorial about the Varusaburosu armor from Monster Hunter.
Today we will focus on two main topics:
The creation of patterns and their following transposition on the foam.
There is a lot of work to do so let's get started.
We have finished a first draft of the work in the previous tutorial.
What do we lack to actually put the material in our hands?
Patterns, obviously.
There are endless ways to make paper patterns.
Some cosplayers simply break down the three-dimensional model of their character.
For this project I will use a famous software: Autocad.
I decided to copy, in a summary way, the pieces of my armor on the program
to maintain the new proportions as similar as possible to the original.
Then, I just import my reference images in the software,
I resize the character applying my height (to make her as tall as me),
I copy the encumbrances* and some details (to be perfected by hand)
and I lay out the printing for many A4 sheets.
Later on I will make a series of video tutorials about autocad, for those who want to learn how to use it for this purpose.
Despite this being the method I find the fastest and most comfortable to create our patterns,
I do not use it for the whole armor.
In fact, when I have to make pieces that are particularly adherent to my body,
I try to create the paper patterns based on my body measurements.
I proceed in this way to create the bust.
I start wrapping me in the kitchen film, just like a sushi roll.
I fix everything with plenty of cloth scotch.
And when I say abundant I mean a mountain of cloth scotch.
Alternatively, you can also use the masking scotch.
Cut the bodice* with the help of someone or alone,
without killing yourself.
Recompose your bust with more scotch.
This is a very important phase so be careful.
Following the body forms,
I sign the portions that can be cut and placed on a flat surface.
Then, with a marker, I divide the torso into two symmetrical parts.
Also, I slowly trace the other lines.
Again, you can draw the pieces according to how comfortable you are but
the most important thing is to make them all reportable on the flat surface.
We proceed in this way both for the front and for the back parts.
Now I cut everything.
I will only use one half of the side bust for the following steps
(by mirroring it I can also get the other half).
Before finishing the cutting phase I make sure to give a name to each piece
to avoid any confusion later.
I place all the patterns on a 2 mm foam sheet
(usually it's preferred to use the 5 mm one,
but I will proceed in this unusual way due to the particular shape of my armor).
I immobilize all the patterns to the support with some scotch pieces
to prevent them from moving during the foam redraw phase.
I cut every single pattern with a scalpel.
I apply a thin layer of contact glue on the back of the patterns and
and finally I attach them in the correct order to each other.
. I should let you know that using the 2 mm foam instead of the 5 mm one in this way is very complicated.
We can correct any inaccuracy, even a rough one, at a later stage.
I heat up the newly completed bust portion with a heat gun.
I will apply it to the mannequin in such a way as to give it a less angular shape.
I sweeten the edges once again
with a multi-functional rotary tool.
With the sealant (in this phase I used the Kwik Seal),
I seal the openings of the joints.
Subsequently I will reapply it over and over again, leveling everything with water.
I follow the same process for the back of the bust.
I cut the empty triangles.
Now let's move on to the scales that should be placed on the actual bust.
I print the patterns I had previously created on Autocad.
I make sure, first of all, that they are just proportions by attaching them to the bust.
Once I have ascertained their correctness,
I report them on the foam, exactly as I did for the pattern of the base of the bust.
For the pointed piece, I cut two portions of 5 mm foam and I overlap them.
With a sharp knife I sculpt the shape.
A 2 mm thick layer of foam is placed over this raw base.
We do the same thing for the central scale of the bust.
For the remaining parts, use simple 5 mm foam.
With the mini drill chamfer the edges of each piece.
In the same way I prepare the pieces for the neck.
There are many ways to make this type of studs.
I will use the 5 mm foam scraps.
Then I overlap two layers of foam of 5 mm and
I sculpt the shape of the pyramidal stud.
I will use the mini drill and sealer to make it smooth and less rough.
The yellow scales, as announced in the introduction, must be able to illuminate.
In this regard, I make them in translucent foam.
Eeeeh… let's do a small led test before continuing.
I add details everywhere,
which make the costume more raw and realistic, with the use of a pyrograph / welder.
WARNING.
IN THIS STAGE YOU HAVE TO NECESSARILY USE A BREATHER AND
YOU MUST WORK IN A WELL-VENTILATED ENVIRONMENT!
It is time for shoulder straps.
I proceed in the usual way and I start printing the patterns.
I bring the shape on the foam making sure, this time,
to increase the upper dimension of the piece.
I glue the two parts together with the contact glue.
Avoid putting too much glue.
Here is a wrong example and a correct assembly using contact glue.
Fortunately, you can correct this type of mistake simply by using a sealant.
For the horn I create another pattern.
I trace everything on the led-foam. I cut and I assemble.
I do a Led test, again.
And here's the completed horn.
I repeat the same operations for the second horn.
Now draw the details on each shoulder strap and
I add the small side horns.
With the pyrograph we add details to give more "texture" to the costume.
After all, they must look like dragon scales.
Let's move on to the chains.
Also in this case there are countless ways to make them.
Today I make them by cutting foam strips.
Lots and lots of foam strips.
After making each single foam strip round
with the help of the usual multi-tool,
I will attach each flap to the other in such a way as to have a ring shape.
To get the square shape
I will create a rectangle of foil and
I will fix it to my work table with scotch tape.
The only thing left to do is to place the foam strip inside the rectangle and
use the hot air gun on it
Let's move to the tail.
We will create the tail in exactly the same way as before.
Drawing, foam reporting, cutting.
Drawing, foam reporting, cutting.
And more details and textures.
The end of the tail will be done by overlapping more foam sheets and cutting the shape with the cutter.
Smooth it all with the mini drill and the sandpaper and then use the sealant.
Add details and textures with the pyrograph.
After using the sealant again, it will look like this.
Let's move on to the skirt.
The most unpleasant part of the whole process.
I print each piece previously designed on Autocad.
With great patience, I overlap all the bands I have just cut.
Let's move on to the detail phase.
Take your time. It takes sooooo much patience.
I cut the yellow scales on the led-foam now.
It's time to create a beautiful rigid belt.
Now we just have to insert the wire in the 4 "wings" of the skirt.
These 4 pieces will be mounted to the belt every time we wear the costume.
It would certainly have been more convenient to combine everything immediately with hot glue
to the belt, so as to have a single bulky but firm piece.
However it is not something that would allow us to easily fold everything into a baggage.
Now let's make the arms.
Continue from top to bottom.
I draw the strap and the encumbrance of the studs that I will then apply to it.
I verify that its dimensions are compatible with my arm.
I impress all the details with the pyrograph.
I'm now dealing with the scales of the bracelet.
I pay attention to overlap them in the correct order.
I add the usual details and the texture I initially chose with the pyrograph.
As for the real bracelet,
I cut the piece and its protrusions and assemble them with the contact glue.
I also cut the claws and the hand guards.
After adding details in relief with the sealant, the claws will look like this.
Let's do a test with the velcro of the completed bracelets.
Combine the bracelets and the scales.
Just like I did with the neck studs,
I now make 12 studs for the bracelets
and 3 of different sizes for the headgear for the following steps.
As for the shoes,
I cover the boot with film and scotch,
this to be able to draw our patterns.
As planned, I divide the foam shoe into two parts:
front and back.
I add the details with the pyrograph and
I combine the spikes on the two pieces of shoe with contact glue and sealer.
I also print and cut the portions of the upper legging.
I paste each part and add the details.
I'll give it the shape by heating it with the heat gun and applying it to my leg for a minute.
Let's not forget about the thigh protectors.
Now it's the time to create the claws of the leggings.
I overlap the foam and I sculpt each spike with the cutter and the scissors.
After adding some details, the leggings shoud look like this.
Let's move on to the headgear.
First of all, I cut the lateral scales of the face and
then the strip that will be placed on the hair band.
Finally, I finish the edges with the pyrograph.
Let's do a test wearing the still uncompleted armor!
That's it for today.
In the next video we will see how to paint the costume!
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See you next time!
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