- Welcome to another Ask GMBN Tech,
this is our weekly Q and A show on the Tech channel
where you get to ask tech-related
we'll answer some questions
and hopefully we get to answer them for you.
Get your questions into us at the email address
on the bottom of the screen, right there
or you can add them in the comments below this very video.
Don't forget to use the #AskGMBNTech,
makes it nice and easy for us to compile all your questions
for next week's show.
So first up is from LANCELOT_YOUTUBE,
What is much better?
The RockShox Lyrik or the Fox 36?
(whistle)
Tell you what that's a pretty good question, Lancelot.
Now over the years,
RockShox and Fox have had their highs and lows.
And what tends to happen is if Fox
is having a really good season,
RockShox doesn't tend to be quite as good and vice versa.
We've also seen this with SRAM and Shimano over the years
but in the moment they're pretty much
(smacks)
even knuckles, there's only one thing to do
fork off!
(intense rock music)
Okay so you've gotta bear in mind
there are a lot of options with both forks.
So they're both available in 27 1/5 and 29 inch models
and in various different specifications.
So, let's have a look at the chart on the screen right now
and we'll start picking them apart
and we'll see which sounds better.
So first up wheel options as we know 27 1/5 and 29 inches
to both of them so that's a check
from both RockShox and Fox.
Travel options,
so that's the amount of wheel travel you have.
So for Rockshox, you've got the RC model
which has 150, 160, 170, and 180 millimeter travel
and it also has 180 millimeters travel in the 29 inch wheel
so that's probably the longest travel.
29 inch wheel single kind of fork there is at the moment
because the Fox version, the FIT4,
that's available in 150, 160, 170, and 180
but only up to 170 millimeters to travel in the 29.
There's also FIT2 which is 160, 170, 180
and there's also Rockshox fork the RCT3
which has the dropdown travel so basically
that drops to 30 millimeters of travel
just at the flick of a switch,
making it climb a little better
but you can at unleash for that downhill potential.
The chassis itself,
Fox is a whopping 36 millimeter so super stiff there.
Whereas Rockshox, a little bit skinner,
they are 35 millimeters.
So far Rockshox have upped the anti
with a 180 mil on the 29 inch version.
The Fox got a slightly bigger chassis
with the 36 millimeters.
Fox have an e-bike model available whereas Rockshox,
yeah that one's tough enough for your bike
so just chuck in another 10 psi.
Okay so what are the spring options?
So on the Fox you've got the FLOAT air spring
which of course is that new e-vault system
so it has extra volume, so it's incredibly supple
on the small hits.
It's tuneable with air volume spaces as well.
On the Rockshox fork you've got the RC2DebonAir spring
so that is the similar sort of concept from Rockshox again,
incredibly supple on those small hits
that require the fork to be very responsive.
So what about damping control?
On the Fox model you've of course
have their famous FIT system.
They've got the grip too and they've also got the FIT4,
so the FIT4 system is essentially their three position dial
on the top so an open mid and a more locked down feeling.
Rockshox also have that equivalent
they call that the RCT3, similar three position dial.
But the FIT GRIP2 is their new damper from Fox
and that thing is phenomenal
but RockShox has the Charger RC2.
Again, both of these dampers they both offer
high and low speed compression
with externally adjustable dials
so you can really, really tune that fork into
the way you want it to feel.
But what about rebound?
Okay, so the Fox has got both
high and low speed external adjustments
whereas RockShox have just got single adjusted,
it takes care of both of those.
And as you seen both of the forks have got a lot going on
so let's take it down to the more shallow options.
So colors,
they both come in black,
Fox comes in orange,
Rockshox comes in boxer red.
Come on, which one of those two do you prefer?
At the moment I've actually got the orange fork
on my SCOTT and I absolutely love it.
But I've got a bit of an affinity for the RockShox boxer,
when it first came out in that boxer red,
that was the fastest looking fork on the market.
So pretty tough call between those two
and let's have a look between the weight of the forks.
Obviously bear in mind, there's a lot of different options,
so I've got the weights for the 27 1/2 inch model
for both forks with both of them
at a 160 millimeters of travel.
So Fox is weighing in at 1,956 grams
and the RockShox's just a little bit more, 2,020 grams.
But how much do they cost?
The RockShox 989 queens so sub 1,000
and the Fox, 1,139.
So you may get a slightly lighter fork with the Fox
but it costs you quite a bit more cash.
Really at the moment, both the RockShox Lyrik
and the Fox 36 is are both incredible,
hard-htting, trial and enduro forks.
They're both phenomenal, I can't emphasize that enough,
if I was gonna pick one right now this second to ride
and this isn't based on which one is better.
I'd pick the RockShox,
probably because I've got the Fox on another bike.
But seriously, they're both phenomenal forks
and I'd love to hear from any of that have either
Fox 36 or Rockshox Lyrik or any inclination of them.
In fact, let us know what you think of them
and why think it's better than the other equivalent.
Genuinely interested to hear.
Okay, so next up is from DD410,
I've got a Fox 36 170 millimeter PERFOMANCE ELITE from 2018.
Is it possible to up its travel to 180?
Yes, nice and simple,
you will need a new air shaft feeding tunnel
to allow it to extend up 180 millimeter travel.
It's a fairly easy thing if you're comfortable
but knowing your way around a bike to fit yourself.
But if not, then book your fork in for service
and get them to change that at the same time
cause they'll end up giving it a complete service
in order to do that.
Your fork will feel incredible,
it'll obviously have a warranty on it
from them fitting that component to it
and you'll have more travel so job done.
Alright next up is from GOTDICED5,
Hey Doddy I have a Moorwood Makalu from 2012,
it has a 1 1/8 headset in it but my fork is tapered
I can't seem to figure out exactly which type
of tapered bottom set I'd need,
can you help me out?
Yeah but I thought a Makalu is a downhill frame,
correct me if I'm wrong,
pretty sure it is I know a few people who have them.
I guess you might have a
long travel single crown fork in there.
Either way, I'm 99.9% sure that
that frame has a 1.5 head tube on it
and that would suggest it's got a tapered fork in there
so you've got a 1.5 bunk up in there
and you've got a reducer cup on the top
to enable the striper of the (mumbles) to pass through.
I'm just gonna throw you to a really handy tool
that I like to use actually,
It's the Cane Creak Headset Finder,
so on screen now, you can just see me typing in
so Moorewood select on that.
Next up I'm selectin Makulu,
year model was 2011 to a 2013, yeah that's the one.
Tapered bottom here we go
and you can start to see
it shows me different option for what you want.
So you could have an external lower cup,
you could have an internal flash fit,
so definitely have a look at that.
And it'll tell you the exact options of headsets you want
but hopefully it's just a standard number
that they tell you.
And you can actually use that number
on other headset brands.
So even though that Cane Creek makes some fantastic headsets
and I completely recommend them,
it doesn't mean you have to stick to them
because those codes do apply
to other brand headsets on the market.
I'm putting the link to that
in the description below this video,
so make sure you have a look
on the Cane Creek Headset Finder,
it's a really, really good tool.
Alright next up is from Nick Rogers,
Hi Doddy, I'm currently running Continental Baron tires.
They've been on my bike approximately, one year.
The tires are made from their Black Chilli Compound.
There's still plenty of tread on them,
but the tires feel less tacky on the trails.
Is this normal?
Or is it just reduced grip due to tire wear? Thanks!
But there's a lot of different factors
that can be taken into tire performance.
So the very first thing is your tire pressure
and tire pressure tends to fluctuate with both
the season or year your riding in.
You're tire pressure can feel different
in winter to what it does in summer.
Of course you're internal calibration
on what your tire pressure is
is gonna be different all year round
unless you're very picky with your tire pressures.
Which leads me onto one of the most important factors
of any tire regardless of compound, is tire pressure.
If you're not running decent pressure
or at least know your tire pressure front and rear
and how they perform,
is really gonna hamper your sort of feeler gauge
on how that tire performs off road.
Now I've said this before with different tires
and of course, the soft compound rubber tire
will always grip more than a hard compound rubber tire.
However, you can definitely e-count more performance
from tire pressure alone, I think.
This is talking about on a budget scaling,
you can eek out more performance
by getting your tire pressures correct
than you can from pick at any tire combination on a bike.
You can run a fairly poor tire,
get the pressure right you can still find grip with it.
So that's really important,
so I'd definitely pay some attention
to how much pressure you're running in the tires.
But in also, taking to account the time
of year you're talking about as well.
Perhaps when you remember you're tires
feeling really tacky before,
it was in warmer conditions.
The rubber in the tires will naturally be
softer, gummier, and stickier in those conditions
than it will in winter conditions.
Which it's gonna feel firmer
and it won't as much sort of slow rebound to it.
It's exactly the same with your 510
to whatever sticky rubber shoes you have in the flap pedals.
In winter, they never feel as grippy
and that's the simple reason why,
the rubber compound will never be quite as soft.
There are some rubber compounds out there designed
to deal with that and of course in the car world
you get winter spec tires.
But it's very different in the bike world,
we don't really have that option
so that is one factor.
But another thing as well is tire wear itself.
So when you get a brand new tire,
the tread pattern is very chiseled
so everything is very defined
and it handles in a very specific way.
Just for example, under braking,
if you're tires not feeling as grippy under braking
let's just say on the back wheel,
the clear reason for that will be under braking
the tire rotates, yeah.
And when the tire locks you're just wearing out
that leading face and you're making it rounded off.
So a rounded edge is never gonna cut in and grip
the same way as a square edge will.
And thing about is, it's the same
on every edge of a tire tread.
Every tire block, every part of that tire,
whether it's the shoulders
or the sort of the transitional part of the tire,
as soon as they wear the performance
will get hindered slightly.
Which is why all the top racers
run really fresh tires for their race runs
cause they need that actual performance of a box fresh tire.
Now of course that's very different for you and me,
we don't need that same performance.
To me you can have that,
you can spend a little money in the world if you choose to
but it's a bit wasteful
cause you don't need to spend that much money.
But it's something you can do to improve that feeling
is obviously your rear tire is gonna wear faster in general
than your front tire.
A bit of skidding's gonna do that
but there's more body weight
on the rear part of your bike when you're riding,
which is gonna wear that tire more than the front.
So what you wanna do is at that point
then flip your tires around.
Get a fresh one on the front
so your tire that's been wearing slower on the front
is still gonna be a lot fresher than that rear one.
Chuck it on the back and get a freshy for up front,
and if you want that old one that's wearing out
for the back that you've taken off,
you can shave that down into a bit of the semi-slick
and you can use that in the summer months.
Alright, now last question for this week
is from BOBBY HEMPEL1.
Another question, what are good lock on grips
for someone with big hands,
my grips aren't comfortable as they're simply too skinny.
Right, there's loads available.
So we're sponsored by Ergon
that they do those in different thicknesses
to shoot different hands,
I actually like the GD1.
I run those on both thick and thin from running a bike park,
I run the thick size because they support
my hand a bit better.
In the winter I always run the thin grips
because I'm wearing bigger gloves
and it just makes them feel a bit more nicer.
But there's also a whole bunch of other brands available
so on screen right now,
you will see there's ODI.
They make a group for the rogue,
you need some massive hands for that grip
it's absolutely huge.
There's also Lizard Skins,
they make a grip called the Northshore
and they various other grips in different diameters.
DMR make their Death Grip
and next up you wanna look at their mushroom profile grip.
So pretty much any handlebar grip with a mushroom profile,
regardless of the thickness of the grip,
they're super, super forgiving on you hands.
So they're definitely worth a look as well.
Also on a biker bike we're just about to give away
you'll see that there are some Fabric mushroom grips
on there and they're actually pretty fatter
in a way in the inner part of it
actually conforms to the shape of the middle of your hands
so that's actually really comfortable as well.
So I'm sure that one eyes grips will suit you.
But bear in mind this is like a saddle,
it's a personal preference thing
so what I say I like might be completely different for you.
So make sure you give them a bit of a try
a bit of a squeeze in the bike shop before you buy them,
that's the way to do it.
So good, there's another weekly
Ask GMBN Tech Q and A session in the bank.
Hopefully you've enjoyed this show,
if you've got any questions,
chuck 'em in the comments below.
If you've got any questions you wanna ask directly to us,
send them into that email address that was
on the screen at the bottom of the show.
For another great take for you click right down here
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