Today, we take the P-License.
All of the license tests are identical to the O-Tests except for the different car and time limit.
This Jeep has 4 gears, and therefore you need to brake earlier than you did with the AE86
the Gold rank for all the P-tests are 0:02.0 seconds or more on the time limit.
You can gain most time from hitting apexes and avoiding walls.
Keep in mind that this Jeep has a lot less steering input than the AE86. You need to turn earlier than usual.
This test can be difficult. You should hog the walls without touching them.
Aim your turning into the apex. Be careful not to bounce off the wall.
This test put your driving skill to the limit.
Stay as close as possible into the apexes and make minimum slow downs. Your timer is very strict.
The upcoming turns are very crucial in deciding your ranking.
The best I did outside this video was 0:1.50 left on the clock. I'm not sure if Gold rank is possible without corner cutting.
Off road tests are the same as their P-Test trials as well.
Same car spec, same time limit, although the car may be easier to drive in off-road condition.
Cornering shouldn't be hard in this car.
Banking should be made without a problem by entering on the outside then diving into turn.
If you aim at the inside entry uphill, you should hog the outside lane then swift into such entry.
slow down a bit, take the right turn, aim the car left as it goes downhill.
If you're doing it well enough, there should be less problem running into the wall at a weird angle.
Do not jump over this ramp. Your car won't turn well enough for the next corner.
take it easy during this section.
Take the banking and run back to the start-finish straight.
Careful not to crash into the inner wall.
We'll use the 240z we got previously for this video.
We'll get back at the body shops later. I promise.
But first, I'll buy the 6-MT and Super Off Road Tires.
Next, I'll paint the car into its famous "Devil Z" color.
Next, we'll talk about Tuning.
Adjusting driving layouts can give you vastly different feeling toward the car.
We've already sen FF in actions.Balanced handling, balanced performance, a safe type of layout to have.
FR is designed for on road. It gives a boost to handling as well as the "drifting" mechanic.
As seen here, an FR car has a very unstable handling. A slight flick will send it into different directions.
The main strength of FR is its ability to control a skid.
When throwing the car full speed into the corner, it will slide out of control. De-accel and pedal control helps the car regaining traction.
Good drifting is all about momentum.
With a very precise move, you can build up for inertia and take corners without slowing down too much.
MR is the full on-road build with maximum grip and torque.
Similar to FR, the car oversteers a lot. However, unlike FR, the car skids a lot less at high speed.
MR has the greatest acceleration rate of all four layouts, making it ideal for a drag race.
MR also has great traction. It can grip through corners with only slight slowdown at the entry to avoid a slide.
MR makes it easily to hit an apex, but because of its handling, you need to be careful about hitting the wall.
4WD car emphasizes stability over all else. It has the heaviest build and reduced performance on road.
Right away, you can see the different in how the 4WD car turn. It's sluggish and gives a lot of understeer.
4WD emphasize precise turning. It requires ideal entry to a corner, which gives an ideal exit speed.
It also gives a huge stability over jumps. No more worrying about the car throwing itself against the wall.
4WD, however, has a very poor torque. It's very slow compared to other layout on road.
Let's test out the 4WD on an off-road track.
4WD is build to maximize balancing over road bumps. It allows the car to move very smoothly over difficult terrains previously taken by the FF.
Jumping will have less chances to flip the car, and the speed after a jump is very well maintained.
I can take this corner very swiftly, in contrary to what I did several videos ago with an FF car.
Overall, choosing a layout should be based on your driving style and the driving terrain.
Next, we'll look at Tune Up.
Tuning is very expensive. It gives a slight boost to the performance based on the the category you choose.
The worse of it is that the change will be cancel when you swap part. Making tune up very situational.
The changed performance is quite apparent and tempting, though.
Testing the Easy Tune on an MR car, you can see that the car quickly climb to 212 mph compared to the 206 mph shown previously.
That's 6 mph extra horsepower, which can make difference in tracks like Big Ovel and Choro Desert.
Since tuning is expensive, I wouldn't recommend it until the endgame where you have spare cash.
You can check your progress in the setting menu.
There are 3 types of controllers to choose from.
No shoulder button for pedals, though. That would've helped with the drifting mechanic.
Vibration system is used mostly for console players.
You can freely play BGM here, including the endgame musics and unused tracks.
As promised, we'll look at the body shops.
Since I have the 240z, I might as well but the 300zx as well.
"Zeta 300(0)" is from the game Racing Lagoon. That's on my list for the next text walkthrough.
Oh, hi there.
I'm buying the garbage truck, because it's a Choro Q game. There's no reason not to buy a garbage truck
Well, I'm broke again. Not a problem, though.
Next video, Intermediate races. Stay tune.
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