[Dwight]: The secret to a custom water cooling loop is to do what the pros do
and that is go in with a plan.
In this episode we're going to show you how to design a bullet proof water
cooling system that looks amazing and works as hard as your GPU does.
What's up everybody?
My name is Dwight and welcome back to GeForce Garage.
In the first five episodes of our Scratch Build Series,
we designed a custom chassis in SketchUp,
picked up some basic metal fabrication techniques,
learned how to apply complex designs to our mods using hydro dipping,
showed you how to shine up your metal components using different finishes
and then walked you through the process of modding the heart of
every gaming rig, the GPU.
Now, we're ready to add the last component to our Scratch Build,
a custom water cooling loop.
Water cooling solutions can be as simple as an all-in-one kit,
or a custom DIY kit but this is GeForce Garage,
so we're going to create our very own water cooling kit from scratch.
But the most essential component of any custom water cooling
isn't the kit or the materials, it's the planning.
So that's why we brought in Lee Harrington of PC Junkiemods
to show us how it's done.
Well, thanks for coming by, Lee.
[Lee]: Thanks for having me, Dwight.
[Dwight]: So, we're at the very end stages of our Scratch Build
and we're getting ready to water cool.
What's our first step?
[Lee]: So, the first step is going to be to identify what you're going to
water cool because there's so many different options you can do.
The power supply, you can do RAM, you can do hard drive, GPU, CPU, you name it.
Ron Lee Christianson was kind enough
to paint the GPUs to match the build, so we're just going to water cool
the CPU only on this.
[Dwight]: Okay, well, I know that every
water cooling loop requires a block, a radiator, and a reservoir and pump.
What specifically do we have on this build?
[Lee]: So, this build has the EK-Supremacy CPU block.
It has a 360 radiator, a pump-res combo with a D5 pump.
So, something that's really important for future maintenance, if you can,
incorporate a fill port and a drain port.
You know, not all systems are going to be able to do that because things
get really tight once you put the reservoir and stuff in there.
You know, when the liquid breaks down or loses its color,
you want to flush that out and put in new liquid.
And with the ball valve down here, it makes life a lot easier.
You open that up, hopefully everything drains out.
[Dwight]: Yeah and it's pretty important to try to get your fill port
up at the high point and put your drain port down at the bottom point.
That way, most of the liquid comes out and it minimizes your...
[Lee]: Shaking it around or dropping it on your head or whatever.
[Dwight]: Right, exactly.
[Lee]: Yeah. So, this one, we actually had to put the fill port just
below the CPU tubes because of the fact that the case gets slim up here.
And there wasn't enough room to actually put it above, but I wanted to keep them in
a straight line because then it looks...
[Dwight]: Looks nicer.
[Lee]: Aesthetically good from the front.
So, the next step would be
to figure out what kind of tubing you're going to use and fittings.
So, in this system, we ended up going with rigid tubing and we have
the EK 12 millimeter fittings.
[Dwight]: Okay, so we're going to be using hard line in this.
Now, there's a bunch of different types of hard line.
What are we going to be using for this one?
[Lee]: We chose a 12 millimeter acrylic tubing.
[Dwight]: Acrylic, not PETG?
[Lee]: Not PETG.
[Dwight]: Okay, why are we not using PETG?
[Lee]: So, PETG and acrylic have their pros and cons, right?
So, for one, PETG is a lot easier to work with.
It doesn't chip, it doesn't shatter, you can't use the finishing bit
on the acrylic, it will actually just chip it away.
You can use it on PETG.
Now, the big reason I chose acrylic on
this system is because of the fact that it's an open air bench.
I wasn't sure how PETG was going to react with that.
So, that needs obviously an explanation, like your system for example.
You like to run it dead silent.
[Dwight]: Yeah, pretty close.
[Lee]: That means, the inside of your case is really warm.
So, it's warm enough that it's actually making the tubing malleable again.
So, it's to the point where you can pretty much
reach in there and probably bend it a little bit.
[Dwight]: Actually, one of my tubes actually came out of my PC
a couple of months ago, so that would make sense.
[Lee]: So, what's happening is your temperature is reaching
the point of reforming the tube again.
Now, the O-ring on the end is pinching that tube down to where the tube
is actually popping up.
[Dwight]: Interesting, okay.
So, we're going to be going with acrylic for the ease of mind or?
[Lee]: Yeah, I think I would say, it's just because this is an open
air bench, it doesn't mean it's going to run cooler.
Because now like a case, you have fans
they blow air through, they move heat away.
This system, the air is just going to stagnate right here, right?
The heat is going to rise, it's going to go away
somewhat but it's not the same as having a bunch of fans
blowing across your motherboard.
So I didn't want to find out the hard way that
the PETG is breaking down, you know, there's a lot of
good things about PETG. Like for me for instance,
I run a system that I don't really care how loud it is,
so it's good for me, you know?
It's good for show rigs because it ships so well and most of the time
at the show, it's so loud, they have the fans cranked up anyway.
And then, also for this system, I have no idea how the airflow is going to
be back here, so it is just best to go with acrylic on this.
So, another thing to keep in mind
is mixing metals when you're planning your loop and ordering your parts.
You do not want to mix copper and aluminum.
They create corrosion and electrolysis.
[Dwight]: Good to know.
So I noticed that you have a couple of passthroughs here already drilled.
How do you go about planning your loop?
[Lee]: This one is a little complicated because we're going for
the real clean look, right?
Originally, I think we were going to go with tubes up and over, but unfortunately
the back here needs to be removable in case you need to do some maintenance
back here and especially, you know, our drain port and ball valve
and stuff is in there, so I chose to bring the tubes across and drill two holes
for the passthroughs here because it gave that nice clean look.
The tubes will be nice and parallel and then you have back here in the back.
We also opted to bring the reservoir on the inside, instead of,
we talked about maybe, putting it on the outside here
but it kind of got away from the clean look.
So, I put the reservoir right below it and that kind of simplified the loop.
I mean the tubing is obviously complicated because everything is so close.
But in the end result, it will be super clean.
[Dwight]: Cool, now what's the actual order of our flow?
[Lee]: So, the layout for the loop is from
the pump-res combo out.
We're actually coming out a little bit.
We're going over and they were dropping into this t-splitter in the back.
One side of that t-splitter is a 90 that goes into the bottom of the radiator.
On the other end of that t-splitter is the ball valve for our drain,
which creates the low point, which is perfect for maintenance.
And then from the top of the radiator, we're coming out and we're actually
coming over a little bit and going up and we're going to the first 90 here,
which is the passthrough through the case and it comes around to the side here.
So, this first passthrough goes into the IN on the CPU and then the OUT
of the CPU goes to the second passthrough.
It comes around to the other 90, which is the actual back into the reservoir.
And then, at the top of the reservoir, we actually have a fitting here,
which does this funky curl and goes into the fill port.
And then, what we already have pre-installed here is the drain port
and ball valve system because of the complexity
of the way it actually goes together with the case and power supply
being here, there's no way we're going to be able to get in after.
Now, that we figured out the path of the tubes, let's get to bending the loop.
[Dwight]: Okay, well, we've got a bunch of tools in front of us.
Why don't you walk me through what we have?
[Lee]: So, first off, we have our 12 millimeter acrylic tubing here.
I also have a sharpie, when I do bend
sometimes I'll put a little mark so I know where to heat it up
over my heat gun and the mark will come off very easily with some alcohol.
And then, I have a miter box and then I have my saw.
This saw actually came from EK.
EK has a little kit that comes with the saw.
The bending insert, a piece of sandpaper and I think a pair of gloves.
Then I have my deburr tools so after I make a cut with the saw,
I take this and I deburr the edge but sometimes, when you have a bend,
let's say I have a 90 degree bend right about here, this won't be able to go on
there because it'll be rubbing against your tubing, right?
So, I'll use the file instead and actually just do this number on it.
You want to make sure you kind of deburr this edge,
otherwise, it's going to eat up your O-rings on your fittings.
So next, I have a little tub with some soapy water, which I prefer
soapy water over oil because soapy water washes right out.
Oil, not so friendly.
Heat gun, bender and I have a towel here.
[Dwight]: All right, then.
[Lee]: But this time, we're not going to get into a full bending tutorial.
There's plenty of videos out there like JayzTwoCents
who goes really in depth on how to bend tubes.
Right now, we're just going to get to work.
[Dwight]: Well Lee, you did an amazing job.
I really like this blue that you used.
[Lee]: Thanks, I like this blue, too.
There's only a couple of other things left on this system
and this baby will be ready to go.
[Dwight]: Nice, and that will be our next and final episode,
where you get to see the finished version of our Scratch Build.
So be sure to hit that subscribe button down below
and we'll see you for the next one.
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