Hi guys, welcome back to my channel if you're new here welcome
My name is penny and a certified advanced esthetician in Portland Oregon today
I wanted to talk a little bit about vitamin C and more importantly about
Some types of vitamin C that are on the market now that I think would be much more beneficial for our aging skin
we talked a lot about Ella sorbic acid or a servic acid which are the same thing and
We don't talk about other versions that honestly are probably better. So let's get into it vitamin C
What is vitamin C?
It is a potent
Antioxidant that you know works against free radicals in our environment that are from everything oxidative stress
from smoking the environment clearly the Sun all of those things are stressors on our cells and
caused something called oxidation and
vitamin C is one of them many of
Antioxidants and that helped to mitigate that they helped to kind of absorb and negate those oxidative stresses
Okay, guys we're going to take a quick pause from the video I want to show you a little experiment
This is an apple that I just cut up about three and a half hours ago. That's the core and
These three slices were treated with absolutely nothing. They're just plain slices these three
however
I actually put one of each of these vitamin C's just on
One half of that apple slice and if you take a close look and I'm hoping that the camera really can pick it up
these have oxidized greatly they are very Brown and
They'll just continue to get more and more Brown and on these three. You can really see a distinct brightness
Lightness and freshness to the Apple if you get real close
Hoping it will really pick it up
The edges of the Apple look very fresh and still kind of crisp and you can see on the edges here
They're starting to really brown and degrade you can see that here too. But on the side with the vitamin C
They still look pretty good. This one is the Peter Thomas Roth
This one is the hydro peptide and this one is the mad hippy now
look at that core that is oxidation you guys that is exactly what
oxidation is it has caused this Apple to start to brown and degrade and just break down and
Compare that core next to the brightness of the Apple that's been protected with an antioxidant
is literally
Protecting against that oxidation so that is oxidation
I hope that that kind of gives you an idea of what our skin caryn be facing
Day to day in the environment and in the Sun and that's why these products are so good to help protect against that
Back to the video, okay
Vitamin C does so much more than that
you guys it also helps with collagen production and it helps to
inhibit tyrosinase which as you guys know is the big one for me, which means that it's helping to inhibit that
misfire of
melanin that
cascading effect that can cause
Over pigmentation hyperpigmentation melasma that kind of thing it can also help with something called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Which is the pigment that is left behind the overabundance of pigment that's left behind after for example
You have a pimple and it leaves behind what looks like a scar for a while
That's just really excess red or brown pigment
Those things are called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation if it's brown post inflammatory erythema
If it's red and vitamin C can help with both of those as well
So the typical vitamin C that we have on the market is called a sorbic acid
it's what everybody looks for or Ellen sorbic acid and typically what you will find as you will find a sorbic acid is
comes in conjunction with a couple other
Vitamins and it's usually vitamin E and it also is often now put with something called furu liqu acid
Froelich acid is a Fida chemical that is found. It's plant derived, but it is thought to be much much much more powerful
Antioxidant than either vitamin E or vitamin C
But when it's put together with vitamin C. It's not - really really boost the efficacy of vitamin C
It's it makes vitamin E and vitamin C much more powerful. So it's a great cocktail to put your seat and your fruit together
Okay, so that's all great, right?
I mean why what could be wrong with any of that?
The downside of a sorbic acid is that it is not stable. It is not stable at all
Not only is it not stable in the product packaging depending on the packaging?
But it's also not as stable actually on your skin
so you kind of are left wondering I think with a lot of these products that claim to have a servic acid you're
wondering how
Efficacious they really even are I mean after you've had it for a month it does it still even work
I mean and that's a legitimate question to have
So because of that, you know, there's that question, but also it can be extremely
Irritating especially as the percentages tick up and unfortunately, it's typically more efficacious to do all of the things I just listed
Usually are best seen at a higher percentage of vitamin
C higher percentage of vitamin C can be very irritating it caused you to be inflamed red even though vitamin C is said to be
anti-inflammatory if you are sensitive or you have rosacea, it can really knock you for a loop and I
Would recommend to other people to use vitamin C with caution
But I didn't want to touch vitamin C because with melasma or pigment problems
The last thing you want to do is also be perpetually red, right?
okay, so enter in
other forms of vitamin C or
Derivatives of vitamin C or precursors to a servic acid and I'm going to talk to you about two of them today
They don't have a lot of those problems that a sorbic acid has. So the first one we're going to talk about
It's called tetrahedral deckle a sorbet. It's a mouthful and sometimes we'll see it referred to as THD a sorbate
This is an oil soluble version of or precursor to vitamin C
So acerbic acid is actually water soluble. It's hydrophilic it loves water
That's great and all except for what that means is it can't penetrate in through our lipid barrier very well
So it typically sits in our upper layers of our skin in our stratum corneum
And that kind of thing does a really good job there
It's not a bad thing that it's there, but a lot of the anti-aging processes that we're trying to you know
Get to their deeper in our skin
They're in our dermis and it's very difficult for L sorbic acid to penetrate because it's water soluble
It cannot get past our lipid barrier
So it sits on our external our outer skin and does all of that really good
Defense against free radicals. It's good for that
It's wonderful, but it is not penetrating in and because it sits on the surface also
and it's irritating it can be even more irritating because it's sitting on the surface of your skin or hexyl deckle a sorbate is
Able to penetrate past that lipid barrier because it is a soluble
Version of or precursor to a sorbic acid now
it does require an
Enzyme in our skin to convert it into a servic acid in order for it to do a lot of the good things
the cool thing is it's able to penetrate in further into your skin and then
The conversion and then does all those wonderful things that a sorbic acid
Can't get to that makes sense
Acerbic acid is also an exfoliant and it definitely does some light exfoliant to your skin, which can be irritating
Tetra hexyl deckle a sorbate is not an exfoliant
It doesn't sit at the same pH and it does not exfoliate your skin. It is not irritating at all
So it penetrates better. It's more efficacious and it's not irritating
And the last thing that THD is is stable
it actually can have a shelf life of over a year and
It is just not as sensitive to oxygen and light I still would recommend
Good packaging opaque packaging and airtight packaging and I still would recommend not leaving it out
You know to sit in the Sun for sure
But it is a much much more stable both in the packaging and on your skin
Now the second one that I wanted to talk to you about is sodium a Sorbo phosphate now. This is a salt precursor to a
Sorbic acid and why that is super cool is number one. It is extremely stable as well
And number two it is not irritating at all
but that salt component of that precursor of a sorbic acid actually helps that
ingredient penetrate our lipid barrier while it's not
oil soluble the salt helps it it's the doorman kind of like I was talking you about a
Few videos back the salt is the doorman to getting that amazing antioxidant through our lipid barrier
To the dermis where we have you know
our anti-aging processes where we can affect collagen where we can do some of those really good things that tyrosinase inhibiting and
Help prevent over production of melanin. Okay. So where are these products?
well
I'm going to tell you about three products that I have found that have these various ingredients and we're going to start with the
Luma Pro C. This is from hydro peptide. Now. This one is one hundred and forty eight dollars
It's very expensive. The first or second ingredient in here is resveratrol and resveratrol is another amazing antioxidant
That's found in the skin of red grapes and just a really really stellar ingredient all by itself
Then this also has the tetra hex old echo a sorbet
My only issue with this one you guys is that they don't list the percentages and while the ingredients do lie in the upper
the very upper portion of the ingredient deck I
Like to know exactly how much of each active is in the products
I will tell you that this is extremely cosmetically elegant and it feels fantastic under makeup
I'm really really enjoying this in the morning and it almost feels a super lightweight moisturizer
now the other one that also has the THD and that I'm most impressed with is the
Potency and this is by Peter Thomas Roth. Now this one actually lists the actives it has 20%
THD a sorbate it has 3% vitamin E and it has 2% for alloc acid, which is really really great
percentages of all three of those actives and
Here's the deal. This one comes in an airtight pump as well and
Obviously, it's an opaque packaging. It is one fluid ounce you really only need about a pump and
This one is $95
the last thing one that I want to talk to you about with these precursors to vitamin C is
Actually by it's actually by mad. Hippy and this one is again. This is the sodium Sorbo phosphate now
This is a very stable precursor to vitamin C
and the reason why I love this so much is this is perfect for during the day you put this on and is
Extremely it just sinks in your skin. I wouldn't go so far as to call it matte, but it's damn close to matte
No gracing us whatsoever. So I think a lot of people would enjoy this very much under the makeup because it almost goes away
It's like it's not even there the other thing about this one. That is so cool
again is that it uses that salt to enter in through the lipid barrier it is so extremely stable and so
non-irritating zero irritation whatsoever
And I think that that's fantastic because you really want a constant dose of these antioxidants
and if they sensitize you you're not likely to do that, you're likely to quit or use it very
infrequently and
Won't get the benefit as you should if you used it every single day the other thing that's pretty cool about this mad
Hippy one is a the price point is really really reasonable
This one is one fluid ounce and it's around thirty dollars depending on where you buy it
I actually picked mine up at Whole Foods, but you can get it different retailers online
What is super cool about this one is it is really good for acne
and the reason why is it helps prevent sebum oxidation like up to 40% and
That is kind of one of those things. That is really
important in the development of acne lesions
So this one could be really beneficial for not only helping to prevent acne. But also helping with that post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
That happens after a pimple goes away and leaves you with that dating pigment
We kind of doing a deep dive into the vitamin C to see how much it can change the pigment in my skin
And so far what I've noticed is an overall brightening of my skin
I'm not gonna say that my melasma it has gone away or anything like that
But I am noticing an overall kind of glutton hoping that this was helpful in some way
I'm definitely going this is the beginning of a series on vitamin C and
Actives we're gonna talk all about what can be mixed with what when you should use whatever
Takeaway from this though. You guys is vitamin C can be used both morning and night and
Really just take into consideration
The other actives that you're using vitamin C penetrates the best at a very low pH so I find it to be fantastic
Used alongside some other acids. You just have to really watch for irritation and contrary to popular belief
Vitamin C is fantastic when it's used with a retinoid Asst so that that'll be another video as well
This is just a stellar stellar
antioxidant, and I hope that you'll incorporate it into your skincare because I think like me you will find it really does your skin some
Good, so I hope you guys found this helpful, and I thank you so much for watching and I'll talk to you again
Very very soon
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