Welcome to the 41st episode of my knife making channel.
In the last episode i cut knives from O2 and D2
with the metal band saw.
Today I grind the edges straight.
I'm using a 40 grid tape here, which after 6 blades is already reaching its limits.
You'll find out later that it should rather not be used for too long,
because then the blade just gets unnecessarily hot.
Here you can see that the blade even tarnishes slightly.
It's not dramatic, but if it exaggerates,
heat treatment of the steel already takes place in these areas.
Depending on the steel grade, this can lead to this, that the hardness increases.
And that's what you want during grinding avoid.
Especially with carbon steel, it is important to pay attention when cooling with water in between.
On the top left you can see the tape in the paused condition.
It's actually no longer operational, which I wasn't aware of when I was grinding.
With a fresh tape it would be considerable faster and cleaner.
To grind the curves, I'll leave the band overlap.
That's exactly what you do when you do the plunge line.
The only problem with this is that you're always on the same area of the belt.
It's wearing out a lot there.
Another problem is that you can always do well I have to watch my back,
that the rest of the tape is not accidentally
too close to the point of the blade you don't want to sharpen.
The red circle shows that sometimes it is very close to the blade
and sometimes even touch it unintentionally.
Here's the abrasive belt again, which I very much appreciate I've worn out unevenly.
To avoid these two problems,
I bought a radius attachment for my belt grinder.
I want to try it out now.
First I build the grinding table for it off.
Then I take out the abrasive belt and take this opportunity to suck out the machine.
Now I loosen the face grinding attachment and Take it off.
And instead I put the radius attachment on.
Then the tape can be inserted again, this time one with grain 80.
The position of the bracket must be adjusted slightly. can be shifted to the front,
so that the tape can be tensioned.
It wasn't until later that I realized that for that. of course the other cocking lever is intended.
This would allow the entire aluminum profile to the front or to the rear.
But whatever, that's the way it goes.
Now the belt can be tensioned.
The radius attachment can be equipped with rollers with any radius.
I've mounted a 20mm diameter one here.
The right angle is provided by a small Table that can be mounted.
Only then you'd have to put in a tinplate or a Stretch the plank on it,
if you wanted to put the blade on it.
I deliberately don't put the blade on. just use the table as an aid,
by keeping them parallel.
So I can get the right angle at the rough Keep loops well in place.
Because I want to wear the tape evenly.
And I can move the blade back and forth to do that.
Wow, if I compare that to when I have the radius
with abrasive sleeves on the drill press.
With the radius attachment I can use any grain
and don't wear out so many abrasive sleeves anymore.
The belt grinder is also available with tilting function.
I'm afraid mine can't. I have to bend over to the side,
to see progress.
Here I have first made reasonable light.
I am convinced that it has already been very worthwhile.
Before I reassemble the face grinding attachment, I want to process this first.
There is sanding dust between the plate and the tape and got stuck there.
With brake cleaner and steel wool i clean the surface.
I also tried to plan this again but unfortunately the plate is made of very hard steel,
that I didn't achieve much.
As I said, in the future, the position will be the quick-release lever.
Here one last time by loosening the two Screws.
Now I mount the grinding table again,
so that I can determine the surface grinding attachment again in the right angle.
Next comes the sharpening of my blades in one of the next videos.
I want to make this free hand because I could use more practice on this one.
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Thanks for watching, take care. and see you next time!
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